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By Harriet Lembeck The Genever Convention I n the beginning there was Genever (juh-neee-ver). It was produced in the Netherlands by a company experienced with stills – the Erven Lucas Bols Company, established in 1575. Spices from the Dutch spice trade were used in their liqueurs and spirits. "Genever" was named for its most famous spice, the juniper berry, which isn't a berry, but looks like one. It had diuretic effects, and also flavored other medications, leading to its popularity. By 1664, this "healthful" spirit was in full production. Genever is different from English gin, since Genever is based on a mash bill of corn, wheat and rye, and distilled at a low proof in a pot still – creating a flavorful "maltwine" of about 48% alcohol. With the introduction of the column still, however, the English created a clear, bright high-proof distillate made mostly of corn, and added flavors from a wide range of herbs and spices. While English gins may have a dozen or so botanicals, Netherlands' Genevers list only about 6 or 7 flavoring ingredients. By 1820, the Dutch were now using the column still, and reformulated the original recipe to take advantage of the column still's versatility. Genever may contain varying amounts of maltwine, blended with grain neutral spirits, herbal distillates and juniper distillates. You know that all herbal recipes are kept secret. Modern Bols Genever lists anise, licorice, coriander seeds and angelica root, but also claims a "secret ingredient" discovered in the old Genever recipe book. Master Distiller Piet Van Leijenhorst claims that this ingredient Harriet Lembeck, CWE*, CSS** hlembeck@mindspring.com is a prominent wine and spirits educator. She is president of the renowned Wine & Spirits Program, and revised and updated the textbook Grossman's Guide to Wines, Beers and Spirits. She was the Director of the Wine Department for The New School University for 18 years. (*Certified Wine Educator, **Certified Specialist of Spirits) will put a "twinkle on your tongue." In 2008, Genever was awarded an AOC, stating that it is a distinctive product, made so by the use of lowproof maltwine, which separates it from a London Dry Gin. It is simply known as Genever, although I have an old stone crock labeled V.O. Genever Gin. So, at one time, even the Dutch called it a Gin. This AOC, incidentally, states that Genever may be made only in Holland, Belgium and some neighboring areas. We don't see Genevers from Belgium in the U.S., but it is important enough for Belgium to have an annual Jeneverfeesten. I came across an old bottle Bols Barrel-Aged of Ketel 1 Jonge Graanjenever. Genever. Did you know that Ketel 1 made Genever in 1691, before it made vodka? My bottle tastes almost like a vodka. Ketel 1 still produces a Jenever, but at an alcohol level of 37.5%, it is not permitted in the U.S. With Genever considered to be "in between a white spirit and a brown spirit," Bols has recently produced a Barrel Aged Genever, aged 18 months in Limousin oak. Its amber color puts it firmly in the brown spirit category. The first time I ever tasted Genever was at a Rijstafel or Indonesian rice table, at the Netherlands Consulate General in New York. The drink was made by pouring two drops of Angostura Bitters into a glass, which was then swirled so that the bitters coated the inside. Then the Genever was poured. The bitters tinted it pink. Angostura Bitters, incidentally, contains 44.7% ABV. But since it is served by the drop or dash, it has been ruled that this contains an insignificant amount of alcohol. Therefore, bitters are non-alcoholic. Bitters should be used in a classic Gin & Tonic, when made with Genever. In my tasting notes, Bols Genever, 42% ABV, had a light amount of juniper and the fruitiness of pears. The Bols Genever Barrel Aged, 42% ABV, smelled a lot like a bourbon and had some background sweetness. It is quite distinctive. I also tasted Genevieve Genever Style Gin, potdistilled in San Francisco by Anchor Distilling Co. Its alcohol is 47.3% ABV. It had an attractive pearly tinge to it, and was very aromatic with pronounced juniper. I got a hint of grappa in the long finish. Note: I may have learned the "secret ingredient" during my research on Genever, but I would never tell. I 10 • Beverage Dynamics • www.beveragedynamics.com • January/February 2013