them on at the base of the tree and remove them there when done climbing.After all, those small pointy things at the bottom are what keeps the
user aloft and attached to the trunk. Rocks, gravel, and whatnot do not
assist the pointy thing in doing its job.In addition,a misstep on the ground
with spurs on can lead to neatly shaped holes in various body parts, ropes,
saw gas tanks, and other items.The basic principles of climbers have not
changed a great deal from their introduction in the 19th century, but new
materials and options have made them a great deal more pleasant to use
and wear.The majority of modern spurs have a great deal of adjustment
available to better fit individual users. Crew members should take advantage of this, as a poorly adjusted or poorly fitted pair of gaffs can make
almost any tree job feel like medieval torture. One of the most important adjustments is to the shank — the long metal or carbon fiber support
that comes up the inside of the user's leg.The top of the shank should
be adjusted so that it lays approximately two to three finger widths beneath
the bony prominence on the inside of the knee.If the shank top is too high
it will grind rather alarmingly against the bone; and if too low will dig
with determination into the meat of the calf, neither is a pleasant experience when also wrestling with a saw and big wood. Users need to keep
in mind that their full body weight is going to be supported on the stirrup that goes beneath their foot, or, in the case of some climbers, on a
foot plate attached to the stirrup. Both options can cause some discomfort pretty quickly if poor footwear choices have been made.A stiff shank
in the sole of the boot will go a long way toward spreading this force
along the whole length of the foot; thus easing pressure.Although large
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This climber's overhead tie-in allows him to make cuts on the ascent during the
removal; and even move out on branches if needed.
Photo by Thor Clausen
Arbor Age / March 2013
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