Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/123973
NORTHWEST WATCH SEAN P. SULLIVAN Wither Washington Whites? GUEST COLUMNIST Most producers, consumers see just one color: red s a wine region, Washington was originally founded on the idea that white-wine grapes – and perhaps only white-wine grapes – could be grown in the state. Early producers set their sights on riesling. "They had no hope, it was believed, of ripening much else here in the frigid north," Paul Gregutt wrote sardonically in his book, "Washington Wines & Wineries: The Essential Guide 2nd Edition." The selection of riesling was, no doubt, a good match for Washington. The grape has excelled here over the years, so much so that Chateau Ste. Michelle is the world's largest producer of riesling, offering eight different bottlings, ranging from dry to dessert style. The winery produced 900,000 cases in 2011 of its Columbia Valley Riesling alone. Though Washington has since proved that it can grow red-wine grapes and grow them well, whites continue to lead in terms of volume (though red grapes just barely edged them out for the first time in 2012, 94,500 tons to 93,500 tons). Chardonnay is typically Washington's most produced variety by ton each year, with riesling occasionally taking first place. But there is a long list of white grapes grown in the state from chenin blanc to semillon to picpoul, and everything in between. However, as Washington's star has brightened over the last decade, it is red wines that have received most of the glow. Ask many wine lovers what Washington excels at, and you will hear about merlot, syrah, cabernet sauvignon and blends. w w w. v w m media.com More recently, Rhone varieties such as grenache have been added to the discussion. But there will be nary a mention of Washington white wines. The Chateau Ste. Michelle Canoe Ridge Estate Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2004 was one of only two Washington whites in the last decade to make Wine Spectator's "Top 100" list. And it's not just connoisseurs who are looking past these wines. Some critics are, as well. Fifteen years ago, Wine Spectator magazine's a n n u a l " To p + While white wines lead reds in terms 100" list of of production in Washington state, wines in the quality lags. world routinely + Both consumers and winemakers featured the seem less interested in white wines s t a t e 's c h a rin Washington. donnays and rieslings. In the + Technical challenges may dissuade last 10 years, new winemakers from producing though, 46 Washwhite wines. ington wines have graced + Lower grape prices can affect growthe list, only two of them er attention and impact quality. white wines (Barnard Griffin Riesling Colum+ A lack of identity for Washington bia Valley 2008 and Chawhites presents sales challenges for teau Ste. Michelle Canoe higher-priced wines Ridge Estate Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2004). This reflects a larger trend: Of the 349 Washington wines Wine Spectator scored 90 points or higher in 2012, only 27 were white – a meager 16% of the Washington white bottlings reviewed. W i t h Wa s h i n g t o n s t i l l p r o d u c i n g an abundance of white wines each year, what's happened? Why isn't anyone talking about Washington whites anymore? SHORT COURSE M a y - J u n e 2 0 13 | V I N E YA R D & W I N E RY M A N A G E M E N T 31