Good Fruit Grower

August 2013

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Grapes Kestrel Wines finds value in OLD VINES The deep roots of old vines help express minerality and spiciness in the wines. by Melissa Hansen ines planted 30 to 40 years ago are hard to find in Washington State, a relative newcomer to the wine world. Kestrel Wines of Prosser holds the distinction of owning some of the state's oldest Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec, with some dating back to 1972. Kestrel Wines, owned by Helen Walker, can't take credit for planting the vineyard—the vines were planted by pioneer Mike Wallace and sold to Kestrel in 1996. But the vineyard has stayed in production, and Kestrel uses the fruit to make several "old vine" wines. Still-producing old vineyards can be hard to find for several reasons, says J.J. Compeau, Kestrel Wines general manager. Growers often replant old vineyards because production drops off, the variety is no longer popular, or diseases become so severe they impact fruit quality. In the 1990s, Riesling wines lost consumer favor, and " '%& "" vineyards in the state were torn out and replaced with red wine grape varieties. Just recently, the white variety made a comeback with wine drinkers, and it became one of the top-selling varieties with grape nurseries. Compeau believes there is value in keeping old vineyards in production. He says that as vines reach 18 years of age, quality goes up and the vine self-regulates its productivity. Old vines show the vineyard's terroir or sense of place. "Old vines, with their deep roots, express soil attributes and things like minerality," he said, but added that as the vine self-regulates, yields are reduced. Kestrel's old Cabernet Sauvignon block yields around 1.2 tons per acre. For their Merlot, the average yield is two tons, and for Chardonnay, two to four tons. "That's way below statewide averages," Compeau said. Depending on variety and location, some young vineyards in the state %'! " ) %'# " " - ' *" %'! " ) %'# (%" ( & ' ) "$ #%*$) %$ $- + " " '*$$ $ $ %, %) )%' %, *))" %* " %'! '%*$ % " "! '%() $ %$%#- ) % $) %'!( % $) ) # ! " ! %$+ -%'( ' ) ) *' $ -" $ &' - '( ;;; 4,-0&63;2;)0(-2+ '31 ' % $ $"% $ > )77 8,%2 -2',)7 ;-() *36 2%663; 86)) 63; 74%'-2+7 > !6%'836 13928)( :%0:) -7 %:%-0%&0) > =(6%90-' (6-:)2 6300)6 ',%-2 *36 032+ 71338, 34)6%8-32 > "7)7 )<-78-2+ 86%'836 ,=(6%90-' 7=78)1 > (.978%&0) ,-8', *36 (-**)6)28 (6%;&%6 ,)-+,87 > )%6 13928)( %9831%8-' &3< 7834 83 46):)28 70-(-2+ Building the Best Since 1964 PHIL BROWN WELDING CORP. ,32) • %< • ? -0) ( $ 32/0-2 -',-+%2 Contact Vine Tech Equipment your Northwest Phil Brown Dealer ;;; :-2)8)',)59-41)28 '31 44 AUGUST 2013 GOOD FRUIT GROWER An old Cabernet Sauvignon vine at Kestrel View Estates Vineyard near Prosser. www.goodfruit.com

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