Experts weigh in on the continent's
leading regions, varietals and wineries
By Kelly A. Magyarics
hanks to its vast terrain of varied microclimates and an
adventurous spirit that inspires experimentation with
both local and well-known grapes, South America is
producing some exceptional wines. And the wines are a terrific
value, though many oenophiles now focus on the high quality.
Roger Dagorn, master sommelier/beverage director of the
New York-based One Five Hospitality, which owns and operates
five concepts in Manhattan, cites several reasons why South
American wines are crowd pleasers. One is the propensity of the
continent's countries to gravitate toward signature grapes, with
easy-to-pronounce names and regions.
Then there's the quality-to-value ratio, food friendliness and
accessibility at all price points that all help make these wines
never-fail options, Dagorn says. The wine list for One Five
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| SEPTEMBER 2013
Hospitality's latest concept, the 100-seat Brazilian restaurant
Botequim, sources 75% of its offerings from South America.
THE NEW MERLOT
Mention South American wines, and thoughts are sure to
quickly turn to malbec, Argentina's signature red varietal. One
of the six permitted red grapes allowed in red Bordeaux, and
made into rustic wines in Cahors in southwest France, malbec
produced in Mendoza and other Argentinian regions has seen its
sales surge in the past five or so years.
"Malbec has replaced merlot as the go-to choice for a red wine
that offers great density and concentration without excessive
tannin or dryness," says Jeffrey Gregory, general manager/wine
director for FT33, a 74-seat, seasonal-inspired modern cuisine
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