Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/267019
w w w. v w m m e d i a . c o m M a r - A p r 2 014 | V I N E YA R D & W I N E RY M A N A G E M E N T 2 7 The more troublesome problems the Virginia-based Morton has been asked to solve include low-vigor rootstocks, vine- yards that produce green, vegetal flavors, "and red blotch," she added with a sigh. "Now that's truly a tough one." Among the most challenging situations Morton has confronted was the mysteri- ous disease that was afflicting rootstocks and causing young vines to wither and die. In 2001, after she helped identify this par- ticular scourge as a fungus dubbed "black goo." It was officially christened Phaeoac- remonium mortoniae; not even Olivia Pope has a fungus named for her. BEGAN WITH AMPELOGRAPHY Morton did not set out to become one of viticulture's leading problem solvers; ampelography was the initial focus after s h e f i n i s h e d s c h o o l i n Montpellier, France. Her professors included some of the world's most distin- guished vine scientists. " I h a d a w o r l d - c l a s s education," she said. "All sometimes think of Lucie Morton as viticulture's version of Olivia Pope, the character played by Kerry Washington in the TV series "Scandal." Of course, Morton doesn't waltz off to work every morning wearing a pink cashmere Ferraga- mo coat, and as far as I know, she is not having an affair with the president of the United States. But what Morton and the intrepid Pope do have in common is an astonishing abil- ity to tackle and usually solve their clients' problems. "I've become the person that people call when they have things that aren't right and they don't know who to call," Morton acknowledged. "I'm the one, for example, who gets questions like, 'Why doesn't my pinot blanc taste like pinot blanc?' " And how does she answer this question? "Well, what usually happens is that I go take a look around the vineyard, and then I have to tell the person, 'The reason your wine doesn't taste like pinot blanc is because it isn't pinot blanc, it's melon de Bourgogne.' You can't imagine how many times I've had questions like that, but these are the relatively easy problems to solve." + Lucie Morton is one of the most influential viticulturists in the U.S. and an expert in grapegrowing in the East. + She is the "fixer" called in by wineries and growers to solve vineyard problems. + Morton attributes her suc- cess to a "world-class education" and keen obser- vation skills that enable her to see a vineyard holistically. + Her support of high-density vine spacing has had a posi- tive impact on viticulture in the East. AT A GLANCE The Lucie Method Lucie Morton takes a ride with Ron Wates, vineyard manager for Boordy Vineyards in Maryland. Photo: Rob Deford Viticulturist Morton's skills boost Eastern vine, wine quality EAST COAST WATCH MARGUERITE THOMAS