Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/291333
www.goodfruit.com GOOD FRUIT GROWER APRIL 15, 2014 31 Ste. Michelle Wine Estates's assistant winemaker David Rosenthal said that Washington Chardonnay wines generally have lighter structure than California's and can't handle the same amount of oak barrels as other regions. "It's an under-rated variety in Washington," Rosenthal said, adding that it shows when the variety is overcropped. "The key in Washington is to grow it in cooler sites where it can ripen slowly and develop complex flavors." With diverse growing regions, Washington winemakers have an opportunity to make a wide variety of styles, says Co Dinn, formerly of Hogue Cellars and now Co Dinn Consulting. "You need to identify what style you want based on your natural advantages." He prefers to fit the wine to the fruit style of the grape and follow the natural direction of the fruit when making wine. Vineyard manager Mimi Nye pays close attention to sun exposure of Chardonnay vines grown in Ste. Michelle's Canoe Ridge Vineyard. The vineyard, located in Horse Heaven Hills, is a warm site, and she aims to have "bright" shade in the canopy. "If you stress Chardonnay too much, the leaves will fall off and the fruit will be overexposed with harsh flavors." Chardonnay success Ramey Wine Cellars in Healdsburg, California, produces 40,000 cases of wine annually, of which 24,000 are Chardonnay, made into six differ- ent styles. About 1,000 cases of the winery's single- vineyard Chardonnay wines fetch retail prices of $60 per 750-milliliter bottle, while lower-tier Chardonnay retails for $40 per bottle. "We sell a lot of wine by-the-glass at restaurants charging $16 to $20 a pour," said Dave Ramey, owner and winemaker. Ramey said he uses less oak than in years past. "Stainless-steel Chardonnay is the wrong answer to excessively overoaked Chardonnay," he said. "The answer to overoaked Chardonnay is to use less new oak." His answer to excessively buttery Chardon- nay is weekly battonage (mixing up the lees with a baton), stirring until malolactic fermentation is completed. The panelists agreed it's hard to define Washington's style of Chardonnay because of the state's large and diverse growing regions. However, Washington wines are known for great up-front profiles and brightness, said Ste. Michelle's Rosenthal, explaining that the cool nights allow grapes to retain acidity. Washington Chardonnay can be successful, even if it's second chair to Cabernet Sauvignon. But it takes hard work and marketing to grow a national brand, said Ramey. "First, you have to put quality in the bottle. Then, you have to tell the world about it, and finally, you have to show up in the marketplace. Marketing is shoe leather." Building a national brand starts on-premise at the winery, he said, adding that his winery has a strong, on-premise presence. He believes that to have respect, wines must be in fine restaurants, and that usually requires distribution. "Ultimately, the best way to grow your own brand, and brand Wash- ington Chardonnay, is through quality, quality, quality, and quality." • URE in Washington "Chardonnay isn't the queen of the castle anymore." —Glenn Proctor