Cheers is dedicated to delivering hospitality professionals the information, insights and data necessary to drive their beverage business by covering trends and innovations in operations, merchandising, service and training.
Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/325224
www.cheersonline.com 30 | JUNE 2014 Woodberry Kitchen, baltimore, md number of Wines by the glass: 25, priced $9.50 to $19 Wine list focus: Designed to reach a broad range of wine drinkers, with a large amount of organic, biodynamic and/or locally produced options. sommelier-spotted Wine trends: "e quality of our by-the-glass program has gone up, while the pricing has stayed the same or dropped." Jake Slater, the manager/wine buyer for the locally- and seasonally- focused, 198-seat restaurant in Baltimore's Clipper Hill neighborhood offers up a bevy of interesting options by-the-glass. Best with the charcuterie-loaded Butcher's Board is the 2011 Cleto Chiarli E Figli Lambrusco di Sorbara Secco ($11 a glass) from Emilia-Romagna, Italy, an aromatic dry red sparkler with juicy raspberries and notes of underripe melon. e certified organic and biodynamic 2012 Stock & Stein Riesling Trocken ($10.50) from Germany's Rheingau region is dry, with attractive acidity and minerality, and works well with wood- roasted sausages. e screw-capped, crowd-pleasing 2012 ierry et Pascale Matrot Bourgogne chardonnay ($12.50) has a balanced palate of apple, honey and vanilla. "Aged in 15 to 20 percent oak, it is versatile and satisfies a wide range of chardonnay drinkers," Slater says. And the certified organic 2007 Pavi Dolcetto ($11) from Napa Valley, brings the Italian varietal to California. "Tasting of tobacco, spice, dried leather and cherry, this juicy wine can be drunk all alone, or with any number of menu options." Jake Slater manager/wine buyer David Keck wine director/general manager camerata at paulie's, houston, tX number of Wines by the glass: About 25, priced $8 to $25 Wine list focus: Small-production, Old World wines from family- owned wineries. sommelier-spotted Wine trends: "More sommeliers are choosing adventurous by-the-glass programs; the lists that are the most exciting challenge their guests with fewer, more selective options." David Keck, the wine director/general manager for the 55-seat wine bar proclaims the 2010 Brokenwood Semillon from Australia's Hunter Valley ($11) as an option that should be in every wine bar. "It is extremely light with very bright, beautiful acidity—lime zest and under-ripe peach mixed with just a hint of wet river rocks and dried spices." e 2010 Domaine Collet chablis ($16) from Burgundy, France, is also bright and mineral-driven, he says, with green fruit and a slight salinity. It's perfect with the saltier options on the cheese and charcuterie menu. e made-for-salumi 2011 Stolpman Vineyard Estate syrah ($15) from California's Santa Ynez Valley is a guest favorite, and has been on the menu since the wine bar launched, Kreck says. It shows the grape's signature spicy and floral aromas, along with a touch of rich, full-bodied fruit. And the 2012 Guimaro Tinto ($13) from Spain's trendy Ribeira Sacra region, which is produced mainly with mencia, is one of Keck's favorite by-the-glass pours. He deems its red, brambly fruit, moderate alcohol, bright acidity and borderline vegetal notes to be a suitable stand-in for pinot noir—and great with prosciutto. 28-32 wine by the glass CH0614.indd 30 6/3/14 9:09 PM