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Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/383488
www.cheersonline.com 37 Cheers September 2014 • sips at other bars around town. Balchum also requires new bartenders to focus on drink recipes from the house recipe book until they get more comfortable, rather than invent their own. "This teaches them recipes and allows them to straw-taste classics." It may seem tempting to take a "sky's the limit" approach and offer an endless amount of options, but Arroyo cautions against being too liberal with the number of drink recipes in a bar's arsenal. He recommends having a list of go-to cocktails based on spirit categories and fl avor profi les—and ensuring that all bartenders know how to make each of them. Personalized cocktails can cost more to execute. Because they require conversations with guests, they take time, so they might not work for high-volume bars. And when trying to make sure that a Bartender's Choice drink appeals to a guest, you could be running up costs. Balchum suggests pricing personalized cocktails $1 to$2 more than other drinks. "Remember that for every higher-end spirit or cordial you put into a drink, you're going to make many more with your well spirits and citrus juices." He points out that operators can still create fantastic drinks with lower-end spirits. Take the basic Daiquiri, which can be shaken with different kinds of rums, and often fl ies under the radar for many guests, Balchum notes. "You'd be surprised at how many people have never had a classic Daiquiri!" Above all, Arroyo says, you need to understand guests' requests. "The challenge is really listening to what the guests want, and making something that suits them and suits the drinks program at the same time." The greatest benefi ts to such a program, he says, "are guest satisfaction and culinary integrity." Betz agrees: Remember that it's not about you. "Bartenders need to leave their ego at the door, and be able to remove themselves and their preferences from what the guests are asking for." Kelly Magyarics, DWS, is a wine, spirits and lifestyle writer and wine educator in the Washington, D.C. area. She can be reached through her website, www.kellymagyarics.com, or on Twitter and Instagram @kmagyarics. THE VARNISH THE VARNISH TAKES A SHINE TO CLASSIC COCKTAILS The Varnish, a 45-seat Los Angeles bar operated by the 15-concept 213 Nightlife, has offered a "Bartender's Choice" option since it opened fi ve years ago. But all custom libations at The Varnish are classics or variations on classics—none are conceived on the fl y. "We never improvise cocktails—the choice is always from our compendium of recipes to ensure consistency," explains general manager Max Seaman. Bartenders initiate a conversation with adventurous guests to get a feel for their preferences by fi rst asking to which style of cocktail they are generally drawn: one with fresh citrus juice that's shaken (such as a Daiquiri or a Sidecar) or one that's more spirit-forward and stirred (like a Martini or Manhattan.) Follow-up questions ascertain guests' preferred spirit preference and fl avor profi le. "Managing expectations can be a challenge, since everyone has a different frame of reference when it comes to cocktails," notes Seaman. "Some guests are expecting wild concoctions with rare ingredients and liquid nitrogen, and what they get here is a straightforward classic." He addresses this by training staff to explain that The Varnish views a well-made cocktail as part of a social experience, not as the destination itself. Bartender's Choice cocktails, which cost $13 at The Varnish, appeal to anyone who's interested in discovering something new, says Seaman. "It's fun for guests and helps demystify things for people who aren't familiar with classic cocktail bars."—KAM BRAMBLE OLD FASHIONED PENNY POUND AVIATION COLLINS PISCO SOUR