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Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/383488
www.cheersonline.com 43 Cheers Septemeber 2014 • BIG FRUITY AND SPICEY FLAVORS OF SYRAH GRAPES PAIR PERFECTLY WITH PIZZA and pizza. Syrah in particular has been a favorite of many California producers, but since it lies in the shadow of cabernet and merlot, the price/value ratio leans strongly to the value side. Some of the white Rhône grapes, such as marsanne and roussane, are not as well known than their red coun- terparts, but they're also worth exploring. Wines from these varietals can be a great alternative to chardonnay for customers looking to branch out. RIESLING RISING If your wine director has been begging you to allow more rieslings on the list, now's a good time to do it. The ver- satile white wine is fi nally making its way to American dinner tables because it's great with food. Dry rieslings offer incredibly fl exibility with a broad range of vegetable, fi sh and light meat dishes, while off-dry versions are perfect with Thai fl avors and other sweet-spicy or savory dishes that have some sweetness, like salads with goat cheese and fruit or beets. Look to the colder growing regions of the U.S., such as Washington State and the Finger Lakes of New York for great riesling values. SIGHTS ON CHENIN BLANC This grape has been hanging around in the fringe for a while now, but it offers tremendous potential. A relative of sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc works well by itself when it's off dry, while versions with some sweetness are a good match with food. Both American and French versions (from the Loire region) of chenin blanc are available in a range of sweet- ness levels to suit all tastes and occasions. GET INTO THE GRÜNER Grüner veltliner (pronounced groon-er felt-leener) is the premier white grape of Austria that produces a miner- al-driven wine with fresh herb and fl oral notes. Grüner veltliner is not as aggressively "green" as many sauvignon blancs, though, and its relative subtlety makes it a great food wine. There are inexpensive Austrian versions, usually seen in one-liter bottles (sometimes with bottle caps instead of corks) that provide easy, fresh fl avors to accompany simple lighter dishes. The premier Austrian versions can be quite expensive—and they're worth it. But the grüner veltliners from American wineries are starting to show up with a little more fruit at affordable prices. MAKE IT A MALBEC This is one of the fi ve main grapes of red Bordeaux, al- though its importance there is diminishing. Argentina has picked up the malbec ball and is running with it. Malbec from Argentina tends to be dark and lush, with aromas and fl avors of black plum. While some premium wines come from the higher altitudes of the country's Mendoza province, plenty of merlots are available at at- tractive prices. It's also the perfect wine to lure merlot drinkers away from their usual choice: Malbec offers many of the same characteristics, often at a greater value. There are plenty of delicious wines brands and vari- etals that many people have never heard of. Put them on your list as by-the-glass options, and make sure the wait- staff has tasted them and is informed about the nuances of these wines. Bartenders and servers who are educated about the wines can more effectively guide the customers. The relatively low cost of these wines enables you to offer guests a great deal and encourage them to exper- iment. Or you can mark up some of the lesser-known wines more aggressively to lower prices elsewhere, say, on the main wine list. Either way, you will be providing value and new experiences for your guests. John Fischer is a professor at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, and a former wine director at sev- eral New York restaurants. BACK 2 BASICS