SportsTurf provides current, practical and technical content on issues relevant to sports turf managers, including facilities managers. Most readers are athletic field managers from the professional level through parks and recreation, universities.
Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/433388
www.stma.org December 2014 | SportsTurf 13 seeding within these windows, waiting one week to seed may mean the stand will take 2 to 4 additional weeks to mature. Dormant anD spring seeDing Seeding in spring is difficult and often unsuccessful. However, there are circum- stances that warrant a spring seeding: thin turf due to winter damage; and poor turf density due to poor recovery from previous year's problems, i.e., grub damage, drought damage, etc. If a spring seeding is necessary, con- sider doing it before the ground thaws from winter. This is called "dormant seed- ing" because the seed will lie dormant until the soil temperatures warm in April or May. Depending on your location, dormant seeding can be done as early as Thanksgiving and as late as March. The benefit of dormant seeding is that as the soil heaves and cracks during the winter, crevices are created for the seeds which provide ideal germination conditions. Additionally, dormant seeding is easier to schedule than spring seed- ing, because spring rains often make it difficult to seed after March. Dormant seeding is more effective in the [more northern] regions because weather remains cold enough to delay germination until spring. Occasionally, warmer periods in [more southern] regions could allow for germination and seedling death with ensuing cold weather. summer seeDing Summer seeding should be avoided. Areas seeded in summer will succumb to heat and drought stress because of their limited root sys- tems summer seedlings are out-competed by summer annual weeds resulting in a thin weak sward. preparing the seeDbeD A soil test should be taken from the site. The test will determine fertilizer recommendations for the area. Correct any deficiencies in nutrients or pH by following the recommendations on the soil test report. Use a rotary tiller or other cultivation equipment to work the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches, incorporating fertilizer or other soil amendments. Do not work wet soil because clodding usually results; in addition, overtilling will destroy soil structure and is not desirable. The soil should be allowed to settle after tilling or compacted slightly with the tires of a tractor or other suitable implement. Heavy rains and/or irrigation will hasten settling. Allowing time for the soil to settle will prevent undulations and difficult mowing in the future. Just before seeding, rake the area to finish grade. After the area is at finish grade, apply a "starter fertilizer" to enhance seed germination and development. Starter fertilizer is high in phosphorus which is listed as the second number in the analysis on the fertilizer bag. For instance, a 16-22-8 fertilizer contains 22% P2by weight. Apply the fertilizer according to the label; refer to Table 1 for the proper amount of starter fertilizer to apply. seeDing Seed should be applied using a drop spreader because rotary spreaders do not disperse the seed uniformly. However, spreaders typically do not come with calibration information about seeding turfgrasses. The easiest way to apply seed uniformly is to set the spreader adjustment very low, sow one half of the seed in one direc- tion, and then sow the other half at right angles to the first direction of seeding. It might take three or more passes in a single direction, but it is well worth the time to get a uniform seeding. Seeding rate recommendations are presented in Table 2. After the starter fertilizer and seed have been applied, the area should receive a light raking followed by a light rolling to ensure good seed-soil contact. A roller designed to be filled with water, but left empty, is perfect for this job. It is critical to maximize the seed-soil contact for quick germination and establishment. mulching Mulching the area will prevent erosion and conserve water. Therefore, mulching is most important when it is impossible to adequately irrigate newly-seeded areas. One bale of clean (weed-free) straw per thousand square feet will give a light covering that will not have to be removed after germination. Many people apply too much mulch, which can shade seedlings and require removal later. Apply the mulch very lightly so you can still see approximately 50% of the soil through the mulch layer. Some professionals use hydromulch which is a paper-based mulch blown on the soil by a specialized sprayer, which is an ideal method.