Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/450509
32 FEBRUARY 1, 2015 Good Fruit Grower www.goodfruit.com O'Reilly's minimalist approach to winemaking is labor intensive. by Melissa Hansen I t's expected that wineries are busiest during crush, but at Owen Roe Winery, the place buzzes a little more than usual with people and activity. Wines made there are labor-intensive, and the grapes and juice are handled as gently as possible, from pick- ing to pressing to racking. During crush last fall, the winery crew was busy— three workers were on the sorting line, picking out green and off-colored berries; two were cleaning and sanitizing fl oors and windows in the fermenting room to prevent contamination from fruit fl ies; four were wetting down and fi lling oak barrels with juice; others were moving barrels, working in the tank room; one was updating computer records; and two were preparing lunch for the group. Owen Roe Washington is a medium-sized estate winery located in Yakima Valley near the narrowing of the Yakima River at Union Gap. David O'Reilly is grower, winemaker, and co-owner of the winery that has about 150 acres of wine grapes planted at its Union Gap and Outlook vineyards. A sister winery, Owen Roe Oregon, is located in Newburg, though no estate grapes are grown in Oregon. O'Reilly admits that he's overstaffed for a winery his size. (The winery crushed about 350 tons last harvest and annually produces about 25,000 cases.) "We have a crew of about 20 on the fl oor during crush," he said. "For a winery our size, that's a lot of people." Hands-on WINEMAKING MELISSA HANSEN/GOOD FRUIT GROWER Andrew Grimm and Kene Vanderpool, foreground, sort grapes by hand during crush to remove unwanted material and inferior quality berries. Growing in Italy Follow in-depth reports by Associate Editor Richard Lehnert on the growers and packers of northern Italy. Our 2015 special series continues on Page 36. The essential resource. goodfruit.com