StateWays is the only magazine exclusively covering the control state system within the beverage alcohol industry, with annual updates from liquor control commissions and alcohol control boards and yearly fiscal reporting from control jurisdictions
Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/52000
foods like curried chicken and bar- becued ribs on the other. While establishing these sorts of guidelines should remind cus- tomers and salespeople alike about the importance of flavor intensity, they don't necessarily offer direct comparisons; in other words, an Amarone or Zinfandel at the far end of the spectrum won't necessarily work with its food counterpart. Rather, the notion of a flavor spectrum serves as a reminder that intensity will dictate good pairings. For exam- ple, fruit forward New World A well-appointed burger on a bun paired with Sutter Home Pinot Grigio. wines tend to hit the palate sweeter than do Old World wines made with a higher acid level and more traditional- ly balanced, which also tend to pack a lesser alcohol punch. Simple and subtle dishes – especially composed salads, lightly dressed cooked seafood, pastas with light sauces – can be overwhelmed by the New World power- houses of oak and tropical flavors. In another example, what to pair with a pasta with red sauce depends on how it's prepared: if it's summer and the tomatoes are fresh cooked and lightly seasoned, anything from an herbaceous sauvignon blanc and a full-bodied Italian white up to a dry rosé or a light- bodied red like Beaujolais or Dolcetto d'Alba will do fine, keeping in mind the high acid of the tomatoes and seasoning (garlic, onions, basil, oregano, etc.) For Goodness Saké Brewed like beer but served like (and with the average potency of) wine, saké every few years generates a new group of converts in America, a significant number of them sommeliers. Without tannin, but frequently imbued with the mouth-watering qualities of (meaning deliciousness or savoriness, umami is the fifth taste after sweet, salt, sour and bitter), saké has a broad adapt- ability with food, facilitating pairings with dishes containing lots of vinegar, fiery spices, pungency and otherwise aggressive flavors. Selling sake, however, has always been a problem, as the range of categories, label identification and other details of the production methods and use escape most American consumers and stop their decision-making at the cooler door. Yet with the emergence in many American cities of izakaya bars (rustic, raucous and fun Japanese-style spots where food is secondary to drinking), sake StateWays s www.stateways.com s January/February 2012 dominate the dish. Make that red sauce a hearty and meaty Bolognese, and you'll head off toward cool climate, medium- bodied reds – Sangiovese, Barberesco, Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir and Garnachas, for instance – and even fuller-bod- ied warmer climate reds. One golden rule with ethnic cookery is to match dishes and wines in terms of regionality. Not all Italian wines go well with lasagna or osso buco; not all Spanish wines like jamon or Manchego cheese, but drill down to the level of a dish and a wine's origin and you'll find many natural pairings. SPARKLING WINES THROUGH THE MEAL S ome wines are almost universally food friendly and worth suggesting to party-giving customers. Everyone loves the effervescence of sparkling wines including Champagne, Cava and Prosecco, making them favorite beverages to open an evening or a meal under nearly every circumstance. "I always lean toward sparkling; you can't really go wrong throughout the meal. It's a great starter and I think its great throughout the night – it shouldn't be put away when you sit down to dinner," says Dean & Deluca's Laz. is finding fans among younger consumers, who love its food-friendly qualities and range of flavors. Saké sales figures have started to grow by double-digits in the last year or two, helped by the marketing impact and awareness built by branded sakes, like those from Japanese-produced Ty Ku, American-made SakeOne (whose brands include Momokawa and Moonstone) and longtime presence Gekkeikan. Restaurants, sensitive to both international dining trends and the shifting of the American palate, have started including sakes on their menus - PF Chang's serves sake flights in some locations in order to help customers determine their preferences. The bottom line on sake is that it can take its place as a food match in place of any white wine group – crisp and dry, fruity and floral, sweet and luscious, robust and challenging. Retailers who keep a range of sakes cold and ready to drink (warming the rice wine has long been considered a way to hide the faults of a poorly made variety) will have another option when a spicy and difficult menu question is posed by customers. 29 umami