Good Fruit Grower

February 2012

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WAWGG Grower of the Year The McKinley Springs Winery sign depicts an old, gnarled grapevine. McKinley Springs is the name of a local spring that was said to be a watering hole for pioneers traveling across the Columbia River to the Yakima Valley. F McKinley Springs Winery was launched in 2002 to develop awareness for the Andrews family vineyards. by Melissa Hansen A bout a decade ago, grapes from the Andrews family vineyards near Alderdale, Washington, had an identity problem. Rob Andrews, a partner in the family farm and the one responsible for grape production, said that in the early 2000s, nearly all of their grapes were sold to larger wineries. While winemakers of the big wineries knew the quality of their grapes, few consumers and small wine- makers even knew they existed. "When you sell to large wineries, you get diluted in The winery, located on family property in Horse Heaven Hills, is one of "They're my their bottlings," he said, adding that although they'd received awards from Ste. Michelle Wine Estates for their wine quality for years, few outside the large winery were aware of their vineyards. The Andrews family believed that starting their own winery would be babies." —Rob Andrews a way to showcase to consumers and winemakers the varietals they are most proud of growing—Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Chenin Blanc, and Viognier. That tactic seems to have worked because today, instead of selling to only large wineries, they have grapes contracted to 25 wineries in all sizes. Andrews's sister Sandy and her husband, Doug Rowell, are in charge of the winery—Doug is the winemaker, and Sandy manages the winery business. The family winery, McKinley Springs, was launched in 2002; a tasting room was added in 2005. James Mantone, owner and winemaker of Syncline Wine Cellars in Bingen, served as wine consultant for the first two years to help teach Doug winemaking techniques. Today, Doug produces about 5,000 cases annually. the few in the state that makes a dry style Chenin Blanc wine. Chenin Blanc is a minor variety in the state in terms of acreage—only 200 acres are planted in the state, eight of which are grown in the Andrews vine- yards—due to limited demand for the sweet, white grape. "But they're my babies," Andrews said of the original Chenin Blanc vines he planted 30 years ago. He's reduced their acreage in half from the original 17 acres, but admits they are still the hardest variety to find a home for, due to their unique market niche. One year, he had no home for the grape and sold them to a processor that made sugar byproducts. Most of their wine is sold through a distributor, with only a small amount sold on site at the winery. "We knew going in, with our remote tasting room location, that we would need a distributor to sell most of our wines," Andrews said, adding that the family considered opening a tasting room in Prosser, but decided to stay close to their vines. McKinley Springs wines are sold in eight states, including Washington. The tasting room is open on weekends and by appointment. Family members take turns staffing the tasting room. Events such as their annual barbeque competition help bring visitors to the winery. Last sum- mer, 300 attended their barbeque event that raised funds for soldiers returning home to Washington military bases. They recently launched a wine club and plan to hold special events for members. "When people do come out, they're amazed at the openness of the area, and they really enjoy it," he said. "But it is a ways out here." • 28 FEBRUARY 1, 2012 GOOD FRUIT GROWER www.goodfruit.com or more information on McKinley Springs Winery, view the Web site at www.mckinley springs.com. Developing A REPUTATION MELISSA HANSEN

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