Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/590181
Markus Bokisch Bokisch Ranches Markus Bokisch is a man who likes to think big. While many view Lodi as a region best suit- ed to growing high-production grapes for low- priced table wines, he has a broader vision – one in which Lodi is also known as a producer of pre- mium wine grapes for boutique wineries. Bokisch studied viticulture at UC Davis, and in 1989, he became a viticulturist for Joseph Phelps Vineyards in the Napa Valley. While sourcing grapes for Phelps' Rhône-focused Le Mistral program, Bokisch discovered the Lodi appellation. After three years at Phelps, he moved to Spain and worked in the vineyards of Catalonia. There he fell in love with Albariño and Graciano. When he returned to California, intent on planting a new vineyard, his search for volcanic soils and reasonable land prices led him back to Lodi. In 1995, he purchased a property in what is now the Clements Hills AVA and planted 17 acres of Syrah. Before long, he was planting vineyards for his neighbors, too, and the Bokisch Ranches vineyard management company was born. Today, he farms 2,500 acres of vineyards in Amador, San Joaquin, Sacramento and Solano counties, including 100 acres certified organic, 200 transitioning to certified organic and 1,500 certified green under the Lodi Rules for Sustain- able Winegrowing program. Traditional varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon make up most of the acreage, but smaller parcels of Bokisch's beloved Spanish varieties are also included. The Spanish grapes go into his own 5,000-case brand, Bokisch Vineyards, which focuses exclusively on Iberian- style wines. Bokisch could easily sell all of his grapes to behemoth producers such as E. & J. Gallo. But because he wants to elevate Lodi's reputation as a wine region, he reserves 20% of his fruit for smaller operations such as Mark Herold Wines, Turley Wine Cellars, Chateau Montelena, Neyers Winery, Odisea Wine Co., Forlorn Hope Wines, the Scholium Project, and others. Despite the size of his operation, Bokisch has earned a reputation for high-quality farming and his ability to customize practices to fit the proto- cols of each client. "Markus has been a great resource and sup- port to me as I took on managing my own vine- yard in 2013," said Matthew Rorick of Forlorn Hope and Matthew Rorick Wines. "Already a sea- soned grapegrower, he is ever desirous of deep- ening his viticultural knowledge. His willingness to connect growers and winemakers of all stripes strengthens the viticultural community and fos- ters more grower dialogue and exchange of infor- mation, benefitting all." Virginie Boone of Wine Enthusiast magazine added, "What I love about Markus is that after traveling the world and working in the Napa Val- ley, he specifically chose Lodi, a place where he could do something different." Photo: Sam Harnack w w w. v w m m e d i a . c o m N o v - D e c 2 015 | V I N E YA R D & W I N E RY M A N A G E M E N T 4 1