Good Fruit Grower

April 1

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Grapes Are Washington Merlots Sideways? M erlot wine grapes are among the most planted in the world and recognized as an important blending variety, yet Merlot wines suffer from lackluster sales. Has Mer- lot really gone "sideways," like the title of the comedy-drama 2004 movie about wine? Sideways, the surprisingly successful movie adapted from Rex Pickett's novel, followed two middle-aged men spending a week in California's Central Coast wine country. The movie created a marketing buzz for Pinot Noir wines, but it may have inadvertently relegated Merlot to mediocrity from actor Paul Giamatti's "anything but Merlot" disparaging comments throughout the movie. Based on worldwide acreage—Merlot ranks third worldwide, number one in France, and third in Washing- ton State—Merlot wines should be in high demand glob- ally and among the top varietal sellers. But not so. Recent market data collected by the Nielsen Group show that Merlot sales are down from the same time a year ago by about four percent in volume and five percent in value, while sales of most other varietals are up. Additionally, Merlot wine inventories in California are excessive. "Merlot is a mixed picture," said Doug Frost, Master of Wine, Master Sommelier, and wine consultant from Kansas City, Missouri. With such contradictions, Merlot no longer looks like the "Golden Boy." Frost was among a diverse "People talk panel of winemakers, grape growers, and wine critics who took an in-depth look at Merlot and its place in Washington's wine industry during the annual meeting of the Washington Asso- ciation of Wine Grape Growers which was held in Kennewick. The prolific variety grows well in many places, especially in Washington, has been a consistent producer, and blends well with numerous other varieties. At one time, Merlot was thought of as Washington's flagship variety. But with lagging sales, the panel consid- ered its future and whether growers should continue planting it. Does it have a place on American tables? "Merlot's versatility may be part of its problem," commented Frost, adding that red blend wines are now WE MAKE YOUR JOB EASIER! BROWNIE TREE PLANTER HYDRAULIC WORK PLATFORM Cabernet but drink Merlot without even knowing it." —Peter Bos Merlot's lagging sales are more a reflection of the lack of marketing than of wine quality. by Melissa Hansen popular with younger wine drinkers, many who have untrained and unsophisticated palates. "Blends work for the young drinkers because of their price, clever propri- etary names, exclusivity, and balance of flavors." Merlot anomaly Steve Heimoff, wine book author, critic, blogger, and California editor for the Wine Enthusiast, believes that Merlot is misunderstood and maligned, and was negatively influ- enced by the Sideways movie. After the movie's release, sales of Pinot Noir reportedly increased by 16 percent, and Merlot sales were down by 2 percent. According to Heimoff, planted acreage of Merlot in California dropped by 5,000 acres from 2004 to 2009, though plantings increased of other red varieties during the same time. "Growers either couldn't sell the grape or thought they couldn't sell it," he said, adding that Merlot is full of contradictions. Heimoff thinks that Merlot is an afterthought in restaurants. "I can't think of the last time a sommelier rec- ommended a Merlot." But several Merlot surveys, includ- ing one from Nielsen, found that 80 percent of respondents believe Merlot is a good everyday wine with good value. Consumers are more willing to shell out big bucks for Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir wines than they are for Merlot, he said. "How come more people don't trust it? It has to do with marketing." Peter Bos, with 25 years of involvement in the wine A properly planted tree produces like no other. • Adjustable tree depth. •Works on stony and tough ground. • Shoe swings for handling. The new Brownie features: • Three-wheel drive for maximum traction. • Swing bucket to save time and increase mobility. • Pedal control leaves hands free for pruning and picking. • Electronic distance marker also available. WE OFFER A FULL LINE OF FRUIT & VEGETABLE EQUIPMENT: Box Rotator Box Shuttle Double Fork Ground Hog Frost Fan Economy LIft 3-pt. Forks 3-pt Hi Lift Conveyors Freight-Mate Durand Wayland Sprayers www.philbrownwelding.com PHIL BROWN WELDING CORP. Phone (616) 784-3046 • Fax: (616) 784-5852 • 4689—8 Mile Rd NW, Conklin, Michigan 49403 44 APRIL 1, 2012 GOOD FRUIT GROWER Right for Washington Versatile unit can be mounted on any available running gear or optional trailer. Andy Perdue, founder of Wine Press, a consumer mag- azine about Northwest wines, said that although Merlot grows well in many places, the reasons that Merlot and Washington are so right for each other include the volcanic and glacial soils, abundant sunshine for ripen- ing, and controlled irrigation of eastern Washington vineyards. "We really force Merlot to show us its greatness as it struggles for its very life," he said, comparing the bold Merlot Washington wines to the smooth, supple, and boring Merlot wines of central California. "California might be ashamed of its Merlot," he said. "Bordeaux might go out of its way to hide it in blending; Chile might get it mixed up with Carmenere; and Argentina www.goodfruit.com industry spanning vineyard development and winemak- ing, wholesale and retail sales, and most recently as wine instructor at South Seattle Community College, said that Merlot was first commercially planted in Washington in 1972 by Sagemoor Farms and Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. In terms of tonnage produced in the state, Merlot is about equal with Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. "Peo- ple talk Cabernet but drink Merlot without even knowing it," Bos said in stressing its importance as a blending variety for Cabernet Sauvignon wines. "Are we the Merlot murderers? We all have a mental block with Merlot. When was the last time you (wine mar- keter, grower, winemaker, critic) ordered Merlot for din- ner? We always make Merlot take a second seat behind Cabernet, yet Merlot makes Cabernet better," he said, noting that Merlot can stand by itself, but Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc need Merlot. "We're a greater wine region with Merlot than without it," Bos said.

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