StateWays is the only magazine exclusively covering the control state system within the beverage alcohol industry, with annual updates from liquor control commissions and alcohol control boards and yearly fiscal reporting from control jurisdictions
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25 StateWays ■ www.stateways.com ■ January/February 2016 JAPANESE WHISKY "The growth has been unprecedented," says Beam Suntory Brand Ambassador Johnnie Mundell. "One day we'll look back at this period and say that this really was a unique time and place. I've never seen anything like this in whisky." Japanese whiskies have leveraged this sudden and im- mense popularity to expand infl uence far beyond their home country. "Their presence in the industry is catapulting them to the forefront of world whiskey," Robertie says. "When Suntory purchased Jim Beam, Japanese whisky became a huge player in the international market." MEETING DEMAND Tracking down Japanese whisky has become a diffi cult task. "The Yamazakis and all older ex- tensions of Nikka are incredibly hard to fi nd," Robertie says. "In our state, all of Suntory's whiskies are allocated, so we receive a case or two of non- age statements or Hibiki 12-year ev- ery few months." "The older age statements (Taket- suru 17, 21, 25, Miyagikyo 12, and Yoichi 15) are white whales," she adds. "Maybe it's out there, but we can't get any." So will distilleries respond with expanded production? "There were steps taken a few years ago, but production remains at capacity," Mundell says. "The timeline for creating Japanese whisky is so massive. And we're living in a world that deals so much with immediacy that this timeline can seem a bit off. But nothing can be done, short of invent- ing a time machine." Part of this owes to the painstaking methods of making Japanese whisky. Blending is the predominant style. The Japanese assemble whiskies the same way Germans piece together luxury automobiles. Hibiki's new Harmony blend is a mix of more than ten malt and grain whiskies. The ingredients range from sweet to bold to peaty. Japanese whiskies are defi ned by this bal- ance of different fl avors, which is attainable only with the proper time and effort. There may be ways, however, to expedite the process. Robertie believes the lack of an age statement on Har- mony is a sign of quickened production. "By switching to non-age statement extensions, companies are able to produce more whisky faster without running out of supply," she says. MODERN RESPONSE It would be tough today to launch Japanese whisky in Amer- ica as a connoisseur's secret. Consumers post so much onto social media that new, interesting products do not remain unknown for long. This, coupled with the craft cocktail movement, has fueled Japanese whisky's rise from niche product to popular rarity. "The way we communicate is so different now. A person can now post a photo from a Tokyo bar and have it read immediately across the rest of the world," Mundell says. NEXT GENERATION Robertie sees similarities be- tween Japanese whisky and the most-desired Bourbons. "Ten years ago, it was easy to walk into any liquor store and fi nd Pappy sitting on the shelf. These days, the secondary mar- ket dominates," she explains. "I could see this same trend with the Japanese, especially since they hit the market strong, last- ed for a few years, and are now starting to pull back." "It won't be as insane as hunt- ing for the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection," she adds, "but I wouldn't be surprised if Japa- nese whisky becomes as rare and scarce." Although this creates a seller's market, Mundell remains skeptical. "It's not to anybody's benefi t," he says. "There's a general statement in the industry: 'If you see Japanese whisky, buy it.' People want to experience this whisky. If they can't fi nd it, then that's a bad thing." Nevertheless, responsible stock management must come fi rst, Mundell says, along with the Japanese tradi- tion of crafting the best whisky possible. Time is neces- sary to maintain the integrity of high standards, while also innovating for the next generation of spirits. Once again, Hibiki's Harmony serves as a symbol for the category's future. "It was produced for a many reasons," Mundell explains, "one of which was that we wanted to provide people with something that they would be able to drink and fi nd at a reasonable price point." " By switching to non-age statement extensions, companies are able to produce more whisky faster without running out of supply." — Erin Robertie