Stateways

StateWays-July/August 2016

StateWays is the only magazine exclusively covering the control state system within the beverage alcohol industry, with annual updates from liquor control commissions and alcohol control boards and yearly fiscal reporting from control jurisdictions

Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/707334

Contents of this Issue

Navigation

Page 35 of 43

StateWays | www.stateways.com | July/August 2016 36 rection," says Roberto Luka, founder of Mendoza's Finca So- phenia and a former president of Wines of Argentina. "We are seeing the return of international investors interested in making good wines in the $12 to $20 range and higher. Many of the larger wine groups that have a stake in Argentina's wine trade are reinvesting. They know our premium wines are competitive and can see a sustainable future here." As both Chile and Argentina climb into premium price points for different reasons, bargain hunters can fi nd new South Amer- ican horizons in Brazil and Uruguay. Brazilian exports to date have largely featured fruity whites like sparkling Moscato. But there is great potential in premium Chardonnay, Merlot and Malbec from regions like Rio Grande do Sul and Santa Catarina. Uruguay's Basque heritage makes its wines ideal for the ad- venturous Millennials looking for a new South American fi x. Uruguay's top grape is the thick-skinned Tannat, the vine of fi ercely tannic Madiran. With the New World's characteristi- cally riper fl avors thanks to ample sunshine, the best are made in zones like Canelones and Maldonado that surround the capital of Montevideo, an area that also makes snappy Sauvignon Blanc. DIVERIFYING THE FLAVOR SPECTRUM One reason South American vintners can command higher prices is because so many are pioneering distinctive styles that have their own unique sensibilities, rather than simply catering to a monolithic international palate. Argentine Malbecs now come in a broader range of textures from a dazzling array of terroirs. Prestige appellations now extend well beyond the bounds of Mendoza, where most Argentine wine is made. From Salta's high-altitude Cafayate on the 27th parallel in the north, known for the elegance of its Malbecs, to Patagonia's breezy Pinot Noir haven of Río Negro in the south on the 39th parallel, Argentina's remarkable span is unrivalled on other con- tinents. Malbec and Torrontés are being joined on the shelf by balanced and fl avorful interpretations of Syrah, Cabernet Franc and even Semillón that give these French grapes a distinctive Argentine twist. Across the Andes in Chile, a similar pattern is unfolding as a new generation of viticulturists rediscover workhorse varieties like Cinsault, Carignane and Grenache that were widely planted in the early 20th century. Even Pais, the original Mission grape introduced by the Spanish conquistadores, is making news, as some of Chile's leading producers seek to rehabilitate the image of this much-maligned lightweight red grape and make it a point of Chilean pride. Many ancient Pais vineyards remain in the southernmost valleys, and have proven capable of making exceptional wines, like the 2012 Reserva de Pueblo Pais from Spanish-owned Miguel Torres. There is no better example of how South America has come into its own fi ne wine adulthood than the turnabout wine drink- ers can taste in Cabernet Sauvignon and red Bordeaux blends from Chile. Vintners here are increasingly resisting the Ameri- canized fashion for hyper-ripeness, choosing to pick earlier to make brighter wines closer to the historical origins of French Bordeaux. Harvesting sooner preserves the grape's all-important natural acidity, as well as fruit fl avors that taste fresher and less dessert-like. The resulting wines have plenty of fl avor and food- friendly complexity, but feel lighter and drier on the palate. At Santa Carolina in Santiago, dubbed Wine Enthusiast's New World Winery of the Year in 2015, the new, top-of-the- line Cabernet Sauvignon 'Luis Pereira' clocks in at a mere 12.8% alcohol. The wine is inspired by the great Cabernets the winery made in the 1950's, which still drink beautifully today. "We use only pre-phylloxera material and must harvest a month earlier than the current norm to make a wine like this," explains chief winemaker Andres Caballero. "It would have been much easier to present a big, rich, 14.5% alcohol wine. This wine, I will have to teach." Luckily, now that South America has earned its stripes, the wine world is now ready to learn what these remarkable regions have to say. • Author and sommelier MARNIE OLD is one of the country's leading wine experts. Formerly the director of wine studies for Manhattan's esteemed French Cu- linary Institute, she is best known for her visually engaging books published by DK – the award-winning Wine: A Tasting Course and He Said Beer, She Said Wine. South American EXCEPTIONALISM PRESTIGE APPELLATIONS NOW EXTEND WELL BEYOND THE BOUNDS OF MENDOZA, WHERE MOST ARGENTINE WINE IS MADE.

Articles in this issue

Links on this page

Archives of this issue

view archives of Stateways - StateWays-July/August 2016