The Manhattan (above) and the Brandy Punch (to the right) are also served at Bellocq.
modifi ers such as liqueurs and stronger spirits. He made sure, however, that any addition highlighted the fl avor of the base spirit. "If I add acid, I'm going to add a little
creates unique challenges. Many of the main ingredients are highly perishable. Vermouth, dry Sherries, and aperitif wines such as Lillet or Dubonnet last only two to three weeks. When possible, Bellocq buys small format, 375-ml. bottles. Th e staff is trained to not open multiple bottles, speed pours are never used, and everything is stored in refrigerators. "Obviously we have some loss, but just like with wines by the glass you're going
sugar to balance it and keep the original acid to sugar value," Estopinal says. "If I'm going to put in an aromatic or a dash of a modifi er, I want it to be something that's in the fl avor profi le of the main ingredient." Th e Cobbler-focused cocktail program
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to have some loss. Th at's part of the deal," says Estopinal. "It's not the most solid business idea ever, but it's not completely ridiculous and irresponsible either." Confronting guests with a menu of
unfamiliar drinks can also be a challenge for the staff . Some guests come for the Cobblers. Others, however, show up with no idea that Bellocq has a unique drink program. "Th e only way we can do anything about
that is to be gracious," says Estopinal. "We're not into snobbery. And we try to arm our staff with information." Bellocq doesn't expect every customer to
order a Cobbler. It features a daily punch. It will make standard cocktails. It off ers a small list of wines by the glass ($7.50 to $9) and by the bottle ($26 to $115). And it carries a dozen large-format bottled beers ($16.25 to $27.50), which are also poured by the glass ($4 to $6.25).
trend? "I think it could be, and I hope that we help it along," says Estopinal. "People have been leaning into vermouth and Sherry more and more, and Sherry outside of mixology has grown as a market over the last few years." Even a Cobbler booster like Estopinal acknowledges that this icy 19th
Will Cobblers be the next cocktail
drink may not have universal appeal. "As far as selling Cobblers in the middle of a Chicago winter," he says, "I think it might be diffi cult."
century drinks writer. Todd Price is a New Orleans-based JULY/AUGUST 2012 | 19
