Cheers

Cheers July/August 2012

Cheers is dedicated to delivering hospitality professionals the information, insights and data necessary to drive their beverage business by covering trends and innovations in operations, merchandising, service and training.

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The Willamette Valley in Oregon makes benchmark pinot noirs. Sonoma and Willamette Valley are noted domestic pinot noir producers. No discussion of pinot noir would be complete without mentioning the wines coming out of Sonoma Coast and the Russian River Valley, or Oregon's Willamette Valley. Cooler due to the breezes coming in from the Pacifi c Ocean, Sonoma Coast and the Russian River Valley produce high- quality, elegant pinot noir with a lot of fi nesse. Parr describes them as delicate, expressive and perfumed, with red fruit including raspberry and cherry—yet with all characteristics more restrained than those made in the adjacent Napa Valley. They tend to be lighter in color and body, with lower tannins and vibrant acidity—making them perfect partners with delicate fi sh like halibut and rockfi sh, as well as chicken and salmon. Oregon is perhaps the best blend of Old World and New World Pinot Noir. "These are the most earth-driven of American styles," says Baldwin, showing fruit and power while maintaining the mushroom-like aromas of Burgundy. Willamette Valley pinot can be a fi tting match for Pacifi c Northwest cedar-planked salmon. consistently satisfying, although they can be light with very high acidity," admits Scaffi di, whose wine list at Plume highlights wines that Francophile Th omas Jeff erson probably would have enjoyed during his lifetime, including 250 pinot noirs priced $60 to $2,500 a bottle. He enjoys pairing Burgundy's restrained style with seafood courses like Monkfi sh wrapped in Bacon, which brings out the wine's elegance and earthiness. Wildy views red Burgundy as the most versatile pinot noir on the table. "It is built to work through a myriad of dishes—it's a great tasting menu wine!" And, he says, Burgundy really comes alive when paired with snails, mushrooms, truffl es, root vegetables, game, lamb and duck. DOWN UNDER STYLE Sauvignon blanc may have put New Zealand wine on the map, but the region's reds are making pinot fans sit up and take notice. "Th ere is very New World winemaking [here], coupled with good growing regions and fruity, clean wines that are lighter in style with great acidity," declares Boyce. Parr puts juicy, fruit and soft New Zealand Pinot Noir somewhere between Napa and Santa Barbara, but notes that guests aren't yet very www.cheersonline.com and New World off erings, New Zealand pinot is very versatile on the table. Its high acidity makes it a palate-cleanser for rich dishes and cream sauces, while its tart cherry notes would work well with squab or duck with cherry compote. familiar with the style and brand recognition is non-existent. New Zealand Pinot is produced mainly in Martinborough and the Central Otago regions—the latter being home to wines that many believe to be the highest quality, complex and most age-worthy in the country. But despite predictions by some that these southern hemisphere wines may someday rival those from Burgundy, Scaffi di isn't yet convinced. "I still consider this a place for value and not for the eternal summit of pinot noir; it someone desires a well-made, fruit-forward pinot without the complexity of Burgundy, it's a great region." Because it shares some of the qualities of both Old World in the Washington, D.C. area. She can be reached through her website, www.kellymagyarics.com, or on www.twitter.com/ kmagyarics. Kelly Magyarics is a wine and spirits writer, and wine educator, JULY/AUGUST 2012 | 33

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