"I don't have one muse, and I don't believe in just one kind of
woman," Casey Cadwallader, 38, says during a call on a Friday morning
in late July. "What I did was put a bunch of women together in a space
to do a photoshoot, but what I was dreaming about was what they were
going to talk about together," he adds. The models in Mugler's Fall
2018 collection—Cadwallader's big moment as the brand's newly
appointed artistic director—included new influencers like the queer
Dominican-American, New Jersey-bred rapper 070 Shake and non-
binary French DJ Dustin Muchuvitz, alongside alums of the house
Debra Shaw and Amy Wesson.
In Cadwallader's 25-piece capsule collection, Shaw wears a mock
neck asymmetrical coral gown with delicate draping, 070 Shake models
a cropped black leather biker jacket and Wesson stuns in a sculptural
black suit with deep-flared trousers. Other notable pieces include
streetwear and denim elements, oversized cinched jackets, high-waisted
velvet pants and a red belted patent leather coat. "Instead of doing a
capsule with inward-facing, I could've done a project about a certain kind
of dress and done it 25 different ways. Instead I did outward-facing,
where I imagine representing a bunch of different things I wanted in the
collection later." Cadwallader adds, "Whether that is leather, structured
134 culturedmag.com
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BY JASMIN HERNANDEZ PORTRAIT BY SOL SANCHEZ