Cultured Magazine

tailoring, sculptural tailoring or very complicated fluid dresses. Maybe that one pink dress will have four babies the next season, and that one structured jacket will have its own range." Cadwallader's appointment at Mugler was announced in December 2017. The artistic director stepped into the role previously held by David Koma, who after four years left to focus on his namesake brand, and Nicola Formichetti, Mugler's inaugural artistic director who was helming Diesel before stepping down late last year. Cadwallader's fashion pedigree is both bonafide and particular, with a degree in architecture from Cornell and an internship for Marc Jacobs that drove him into fashion. Previous stints at TSE, Narciso Rodriguez, Loewe, J. Mendel and serving as Acne Studio's design director demonstrate his adaptability and range to work for distinct fashion brands. Both Cadwallader's Fall 2018 and Resort 2019 collections palpably evoke those of Thierry Mugler, with bodycon staples and powerful suiting filtered here through a technological contemporary lens. A fashion titan of the '80s and '90s, Mugler's fantastical and surreal designs defined '80s maximalism with cinched waists, soaring shoulder pads and pure sex on the runway. In the '90s, Mugler—who remains creatively active— embedded himself in pop culture, directing the original cut to George Michael's "Too Funky" music video and dressing Demi Moore in the now- iconic black gown for Indecent Proposal. "I tried to make a connection back to the spirit of Mr. Mugler, though I'm very different from him," says Cadwallader. "We have different passions, but we have many things in common: architecture, sculpture, form, a love of women." Wandering through the recent Camille Henrot exhibition at Palais de Tokyo, Cadwallader walked straight into a sculpture by British artist Samara Scott. At the time, Cadwallader was already thinking about making transparent trench coats with the interior printed or hand-painted, and the seeds of a collaboration were planted. "This woman has the most insane sense of texture and color," Cadwallader says of the Glasgow- 136 culturedmag.com

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