STiR coffee and tea magazine

62 STiR coffee and tea / Issue 5, 2018 (October / November) U By Josh Doyle ntil the early 2000s Papua New Guinea was a formidable producer of quality coffee. The island's ideal mix of soil and climate helped it consistently export mountain-grown arabica with the bright acidity and clean, complex flavors that specialty coffee drinkers sought – then things took a downward turn. Between 2010 and 2016 the country experienced an 11% drop in production from a high of almost 1.5 million bags, according to Pacific Horticultural and Agricultural Market Access (PHAMA). Serious questions about quality began to plague the region, leading to lower prices for coffee exports. Annual exports have since fallen below one million bags. Exports are now under 1% of the global total. Foreign earnings that once approached a billion kina ($300 million) in 2011 have declined as low as $90 million. The region's tropical climate and rich soils remains a fertile bed for the high-grade A-grade beans suited to today's specialty buyers. Demand for that quality is stronger than ever in the US, Germany, Japan, and Australia, so what was behind the crash? Papua's coffee troubles According to coffee development consultant Andrew Hetzel, co-author of the PHAMA report, most of Papua's coffee problems lie in a transition from large, cen- trally managed farms, to small independent growers. "By 2010, much of the estate land was claimed by or otherwise redistributed to smallholders operating independently Hetzel told STiR coffee and tea. Smaller farming is less efficient than centrally run operations. They're less adamant about fertilizing or replacing aging trees. As a result, both quality and productivity have taken a hit. "No lack of demand exists for the quality of days past," Hetzel asserts. The challenge is in getting thousands of farming families to follow best agricultural practices, he said. Papua's specialty coffee industry recently began showing signs of life. Certified cof- fees are seeing a rise in volume, with groups like Fairtrade Certified (FLO), Rainforest Papua New Guinea is a tribal country, its people speak 852 languages Revitalizing PNG The island nation struggles with infrastructure and consistency, but the government is keen on a coffee fix. Once done, roasters will have a lot to be excited about as Papua New Guinea returns as a specialty coffee mainstay.

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