Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/106621
Then of course there���s The Old Fashioned, where the food is more about casual Wisconsin dining in a tavern-style space. That place is always packed! Yeah, we���ve doubled our capacity and people are still waiting for tables. We don���t expect it to always grow at this rate, but we���re grateful for it. This is what you dream about. until sometimes 9 p.m. And I have an assistant, Veronica, who���s basically my right arm. That has been crucial because I���m also recovering from two cancers. A few years after I opened Harvest I had this bad abdominal pain and found out I had a rare case of endometriosis. But I eventually recovered. And then three years ago, I found out I had bladder cancer. They test me every few months and I���m doing well with that now. Where did you get the idea to open The Old Fashioned? Honestly, that was the restaurant I had originally wanted to open. When I would go up to Green Bay, Tami���s Faves I would come back and my car was full of stuff I couldn���t get here. Whether it was soda or smoked ��� local beer? fish���and so I decided I wanted to celebrate the Anything from New people who make these foods. Glarus. I have to be one Where does this passion for Wisconsin food come from? My grandparents were dairy farmers, and also did some commercial veggie farming. Growing up, I spent a ton of time in their barn. It was our playground. We would also go to Door County and harvest cherries and peaches. My 22 cousins and I would be pitting cherries for two days straight. It was just part of my fabric. We grew, we harvested, and we put food up for the winter months. And I have still never had a better canned pear in my life than what my grandmother made. of their biggest fans. ��� food to go with it? Cheese and crackers. ��� late winter veggie? Radish or parsnip. ��� guilty food pleasure? Taco John���s potato oles. ��� Madison restaurant? Osteria Papavero. How did that play into your approach with Harvest and The Old Fashioned? When my grandparents became old, no one took over the farm, which is partly why I wanted to open a local restaurant that bought from local farms. I had panic-stricken thoughts about farms sitting empty or being torn down. What are your days like now? How has owning a restaurant impacted your personal life? After opening The Old Fashioned in 2007, my time is now split between the two. I still work long hours���from early in the morning Emotionally, what was it like to recover from all of that? With the bladder cancer, they told me to get my ducks in a row because the chances of recovering are very slight. And that just shook my foundation. I���ve always been someone who just works, works, works. And it just made me reflect on what���s really important. I want to be a good employer and treat my employees well���but I also want to make sure that I���m spending a good amount of time with the people I love, like family and friends. During all of this, did you ever think about pulling out of Harvest? You know, I think I probably have a couple of times, but only when I was feeling sick and weak. But once I got back to game day, I knew I had no intention of selling Harvest. So what���s next? I don���t know! Over a year ago we incorporated a new business called Pickled Wisconsin. And there are a couple of different restaurant ideas that are being percolated. It���s my goal to always create new businesses and opportunities for people who are passionate about this. And I know I���m never going to retire. Any regrets about being in this demanding line of work for so long? No. But being in it as long as I have, I���ve tried to cut back hours where I can and spend time away from here with my family and my partner, Jennifer. They���re all so wonderful and I���m fortunate I can spend time with them as much as I do. I don���t take it lightly. ��������� get cookin��� ���This salad is wonderful enjoyed on its own, or with seared scallops, flakey white fish or pork loin. You can substitute regular lemons for Meyer lemons, but add a touch of sugar to balance the acidity.��� -Tami Lax Makes about 6 servings Salad: 6 ripened pears (any variety), cored 2 Asian pears, cored 1 small bulb of fennel, bottom removed 2 Meyer lemons, zest and supreme (save juice for vinaigrette) 2 Tbsp. fennel fronds, chopped Vinaigrette: �� c. mild olive oil or grapeseed oil 3 Tbsp. fresh Meyer lemon juice 1 Tbsp. shallots, minced 1 tsp. Dijon mustard �� tsp. Meyer lemon zest sea salt and pepper, to taste Prepare the salad: Using a French mandolin or Japanese vegetable slicer, thinly slice pears and fennel in large bowl. Zest Meyer lemons and add zest to pear mixture. Supreme the lemons by removing all of the peel, pith and membranes, leaving only soft flesh, and set aside. Prepare the vinaigrette: Wisk together all ingredients, season with freshly ground black pepper and sea salt. Put it all together: Lightly toss together your salad with lemon supremes. Don���t be afraid to use your hands. Dress your salad just prior to enjoying it. 46 BRAVA Magazine February 2013 Photo by Kristin Joiner (left) Pear and Fennel Salad With Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette