STiR coffee and tea 39
In other words: Growing organic coffee is riskier than growing commer-
cial grade. As a consequence the number of certified organic producers in
China is in decline. Some brand owners simply stopped marketing their cof-
fee as organic, selling it instead at commercial coffee prices. Others continue
to use organic practices but are not renewing certifications. And a few new
organic brands are just appearing.
Specialty coffees may boost interest in organic product
The industry is far from its death throes. As demand drives planting of spe-
cialty coffee, locally developed varietals may eventually boost interest in Chi-
nese organic coffee both at home and abroad. As always, taste and value are
the deciding factors.
"But until then," cautions Liu, "the use of potassium fertilizer by many
growers rules out the widespread production of organic coffee [in China]."
In contrast, Chinese coffee exported to Australia is slowly building a
following as a good-value washed arabica. As Australians prefer certified
coffees, and as demand increases, there may materialize an expanding niche
for organic product from China.
Andrew Mackay, general manager of Sydney-based importer, CofiCom,
asserted that "a recent UTZ-certified Pu'er Premium AA from our Volcafe
sister company is satisfying any request for certified Chinese coffee."
Meanwhile in China, where coffee culture is a relatively new, demand for
organic coffee brands will be slower than in the traditional coffee-consuming
markets. "It will probably be the next younger generation of Chinese coffee
drinkers who are going to drive the growth of organic coffee here… if it is
perceived to be healthier and has positive 'green' connotations," explained
Liu. Right now, she said "it's not yet economically viable to promote organic
coffee in China."
Chinese worker prepares freshly harvested
arabica for sun drying
[ManLao
River
Coffee
Co.
Ltd.]
