STiR coffee and tea magazine

28 STiR coffee and tea | 2022 Issue 5 (October/November) Replanting is the remedy for old, low-yield bushes. Replanting can also help cope with climate change by introducing drought-resistant clones and varietals. That's not to say it's easy, and it must be done in phases. Saria started replanting 10 years ago, but he says that is already 10 years too late. Late is better than never, however. Certifications Many of Darjeeling's tea gardens have been converting to organic farming methods and obtaining certification. This has a consumer appeal, particularly in the international market. So do other certifications, such as from the Rainforest Alliance. These valida- tions should be leveraged as part of promotion and marketing campaigns, since they imply a high degree of compliance to global sustainability standards. Keep going. A new operational model Wages remain a topic of contention in Darjeeling. Conversations about rescuing Dar- jeeling will be incomplete if the largest segment of its direct stakeholders — the work- ers — don't have a say in the matter. "I honestly feel the Darjeeling and India tea industry is working on an outdated British Raj model which has not changed for more than 100 years," said Raju Lama, a Siliguri resident who runs Darjeeling Tea Leaves, an export and retail company. "Times have changed and we need to get over the colonial hangover." He believes that the tea industry must become more inclusive. He points to the Tata model, where employees hold equity and gain representation on the board. Another new model lets existing employees of estates become landowners. They supply harvested tea to the corporate body, which will then focus solely on their ex- pertise in processing and marketing it. The company will no longer be distracted with having to provide and manage housing and amenities in compliance with the Planta- tion Labor Act. And when workers become farmer-owners, they become invested and accountable. A win-win. This model is advocated by Narendranath Dharmaraj, a 50-year veteran of the tea industry. New approaches like these deserve to be tried, studied, improved, and promoted, since the status quo is faltering. Alternate revenue sources Tea tourism isn't favored by all stakeholders, but if it's handled right, it could provide a needed boost. The West Bengal government tried to make it easier starting in 2019, when it increased limits on the amount of land in tea estates permitted for tourism-related proj- ects. The ceiling was lifted to 15%, with a maximum of 150 acres, up from 5%. Gardens can offer hospitality at whatever level of comfort works best for them. At Makaibari Tea Estate, Rajah Banerjee introduced a simple homestay program that allows resident employees to construct rooms to let out to guests. Glenburn Tea Estate provides a pre- mium guest experience. Then there are the über luxe Ama Stays and Trails at the Makaibari and Puttabong tea estates. Some planters say tourism will not solve the inherent problems related to tea production and prices. They are concerned that tea gardens will become landbanks, and new owners will not be "invested" in tea. But tourism revenues can help own- ers reinvest in production improvements like replanting. Darjeeling offers plenty to visitors, from fabulous landscapes and hiking trails to tea tasting and tea garden tours That will help make tourism a step- ping stone toward stronger branding and marketing of the tea itself. Focus India Darjeeling tea's home state of West Ben- gal has long been, and remains, its primary market. The resident Bengali population, as well as the diaspora, are loyal to Dar- jeeling. Unpackaged tea is one challenge with this market, because it becomes easy to blend with cheap tea. So producers should nudge consumers toward pack- aged tea, where origin and source can be controlled. This will require effective communications to enlighten customers on what they are buying and why. But beyond Kolkata, the larger In- dian market offers untapped potential for Darjeeling, thanks to rising income levels and an aware and interested consumer base. It is in Darjeeling's interest to fo- cus on this market and not relegate it to a lower status while favoring exports. Direct to consumer Darjeeling tea producers have for long focused on wholesale rather than retail. Admittedly, marketing and retail calls for more resources. And until recently, most of the direct retail offerings came from corporate-run Darjeeling gardens, not single holdings. But clearly, it's a worthwhile pursuit. Look how many of these companies have been expanding their retail offerings. The Amalgamated Plantations Private Ltd., recently launched their brand, Teas Sparsh Agarwal (left) and Ishaan Kanoria, founders of Dorjee Teas, at Selim Hill estate with mentor Rajah Banerjee (center). Courtesy Selim Hill Tea Estate

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