22 STiR coffee and tea | 2023 Issue 1 (February / March)
PU'ER TEA
While most types of tea are distinguished by their
oxidation levels, Pu'er tea is unique in undergoing
post-fermentation. Using the broad-leaved assamica,
and produced in the south of China's Yunnan
province, its processing starts in the same way as
most green teas, with withering and wok firing, or on
a more commercial scale with kiln firing. However,
this step is less complete for Pu'er, and as a result it
continues to age with a distinct oxidation profile.
After firing, the leaves are rolled either to disrupt
the cell walls to further remove moisture and to
shape them, and are then spread outdoors in direct
sunlight to dry or, during the rainy season, dried
indoors in smoke baskets where they acquire a
smoky flavor. In the form of loose leaves, Pu'er at
this stage is mao cha or 'rough tea,' and traditionally
is then pressed for storage into various shapes
including the distinctive discus-shaped bing (cake),
or into other shapes resembling bricks, cakes, logs,
nests and gourds.
Pu'er was the tea made famous by the historical
Tea Horse Road, a network of roads and trails along
which it was transported by mules, ponies and even
yaks from southern Yunnan to Tibet.
It underwent further oxidation and fermentation
on this long journey, and the very distinctive earthy,
Tibetan muleteers leaving the village of Adong on the tea horse trail (the Cha Ma
Dao), for Deqin, northern Yunnan, China.
Processing
Pu'er, Gu Lao Cha San Zhuang Jingmaishan Tea Co., Jingmaishan,
Simao, Yunnan, China.
