STiR coffee and tea magazine

34 STiR coffee and tea | 2023 Issue 1 (February / March) Low prices at auction have a bad impact on the small growers, each cultivating less than 10 hectares, who produce more than half of the region's tea. They say they need to earn Rs 20 per kg for green leaf when selling to a bought leaf factory or large estate. In the Nilgiris, the price for green leaf is fixed by the India Tea Board and varies based on the previous month's auction prices. In 2022, this monthly price did not exceed Rs 15 per kg. To pay Rs 20 per kg for green leaf, a producer would need to sell at Rs 140–150 per kg. That is Rs 50 per kg more than last year's average price. Producers also complain of cost pressures. Bopana of Craigmore Plantations said that in 2021 wages went up by 40%, much less than any rise in sales prices. A widen- ing gap between the cost of production and farmgate prices leaves him skeptical about the future. Fertilizer was in very short supply in 2022, compromising the health of tea bushes. That could lead to poor yields and reduced prices. Many merits Yet Nilgiris tea has plenty to offer. The Tea Board of India calls it a "blender's dream" because it balances both body and flavor. That's why it is sought for blending with Darjeeling and even with Sri Lankan orthodox tea. Because it takes well to flavoring, it is a tea of choice for the ready-do-drink segment. And because it doesn't get cloudy, it's used in iced teas. If you've had Nestea, you've had Nilgiris. Moreover, it's a tea that can stand out on its own. It's a light cup, and that quality makes it a favorite for the European and American markets. High-grown Nilgiris black tea is outstanding — brisk and bright with slightly spicy notes. Because the European Union is the main export market for the orthodox black and whole leaf green teas produced in Nilgiris, estates there usually have several certifica- tions. Compliance with India's Plantation Labor Act is very high, and workers have good access to housing, medical facilities, schools, and welfare benefits. Moreover, the Nilgiris region offers relatively high wages to tea workers, at Rs 418.50 per day for pluckers, second only to the level in Kerala. Most Nilgiris estates have retained the tradition of whole leaf tea making, and con- tinue to make fine orthodox black tea. Green tea began to be produced in 1969 and continues to be made and sold. Some estates like Korakundah Tea Estate, Chamraj Estate, Glendale Estate, Park- side Tea Estate and Havukal Tea Estate produce small quantities of specialty tea. Ko- rakundah, part of the listed Unitea group that also owns the Devabetta and Chamraj tea estates, is certified as the highest organic tea garden in the world, at 2,414 meters, or 7,920 feet, above sea level. The winter frost tea is a Nilgiris specialty produced from late January though early February. Extremely cold winter nights and warmer daytime temperatures create a low- humidity environment that produces these fine teas. Plucking takes place early in the morning when it's still very cold. Extremely cold and dry air is used for leaf withering, followed by gentle rolling, and oxidation at low temperatures. These teas have a loyal fan following and sell for high prices. Well-made Nilgiris silver needles sell for as high as Rs 8,000 per kg. Producers like Darmona Tea, HomedaleTea, and Vigneswara Estate Factory have shown what Nilgiris can do. The Darmona Super Premium retails for Rs 640 per kilo- gram. The lesson is that high prices can follow quality. Single-origin and single-estate Nilgiri teas are a marketing asset for the region. They deserve more attention and broad support. Savvy and enterprise In 2020, marketing consultant Padmanabhan Subramaniam moved back home to the Nilgiris after living in Coimbatore to look after his farmland. To support other small growers like himself, he set up a support group called Knowledge Sharing and Caring, KSC. He urged farmers to improve plucking and soil management, and manufacture tea themselves to better control prices. A few small farmers had already been doing this, using minimal machinery. They produced whole-leaf specialty tea and not just CTC. Prabhu Nanjan, for example, ven- tured into specialty tea early, back in 2014. He used online information to learn how to make green tea, then expanded to white, oolong, and even a Puerh-style aged tea. Besides tea, the Nilgiris Hills and adjoining mountains contain some of the richest biodiversity in India, attracting many visitors. Single-origin and single-estate Nilgiri teas are a marketing asset for the region.

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