STiR coffee and tea magazine

STiR coffee and tea 29 It's this boutique, high-quality approach that has seen the most success, but even then, production has been small and in- consistent. In order to make it viable, most Scottish tea produc- ers have another source of income, whether that's a day job to pay the bills or an add-on like a cafe to bring in tourism and showcase the farm. Quality, Character, Sustainability A tea house with an attached tea garden is the approach that Joanne Holley has taken. Her business, the Scottish Tea House in Lanarkshire, south of Glasgow, offers afternoon tea, tastings, and tours of the tea garden. "These experiences allow visitors to learn about the process of tea-making, from field to cup," Holley says. At the same time, she says, "Our tea garden is more than a growing space; it's the foundation of everything we do." Holley is focused on small-scale production, having planted her first Camellia Sinensis bushes in 2018. The ones planted outside didn't make it through the first Scottish winter, but those planted in a covered hoop house survived. Using those first bushes as a guide, Holley has since been able to produce and sell small quantities of "The Angel's Share," a completely Scottish-grown tea which she says, "reflects the terroir of our tea garden and our production process." Fifty-five miles northwest of Holley's tea garden, nestled on the shores of the Kyles of Bute sea channel in Argyll, lies Glen Caladh farm, where Islay and Duncan Henderson have similar hopes. They, too, are in the learning stages of their journey, and like Holley, they have been able to produce a small amount of tea. The process has not been without its setbacks, however. "There have been difficulties in a marginal climate, we lost 2000 tea plants of a varietal that didn't like the fluctuations in the temperature over winter a couple of years ago," Islay Hender- son says. "We're now working with plants from several origins, seeds and cuttings, and continuously experimenting." Growing tea in these environments is especially challenging due to the often harsh weather. To counteract this, both grow- ers have planted native woodlands to act as windbreaks—Hol- The Angel's Share Tea is a completely Scottish-grown single-estate tea, which reflects the unique terroir of the land and its production process. Photo courtesy the Scottish Tea House ley also uses honeybees for pollination—and have both recon- ciled themselves to the slow progress. In fact, Holley looks at the bright side: "Scotland's cool climate and shorter growing season mean that our tea plants grow more slowly, which actu- ally enhances the flavor and depth of the tea." The Future of Scottish-Grown Tea Whether the Scottish-grown tea industry can ever achieve com- mercial sustainability remains to be seen. There are myriad im- pediments, some less obvious than others: As well as the wind and cold temperatures, somewhat ironically, Scotland doesn't receive enough rainfall to be an ideal tea-growing climate. Despite this, tea growers such as Henderson and Holley con- tinue to pursue the promise of a sustainable, commercial tea-pro- ducing industry in Scotland. Henderson says they are currently producing small batches of tea, both their own and in collabora- tion with other farmers from the Tea Scotland growers' associa- tion, and hopes to offer tea tastings at the farm in 2025. "It was the first year of our new tiny tea factory here at the farm, and I made tea for Tea Scotland and a small batch of the first ever Glen Caladh single estate tea," Henderson says. "We are so pleased with it, after seven years of looking after this plantation in a seemingly unlikely location in many ways, but a location we've hoped and dreamed will produce a fabulous tasting tea." Holley's production is also small, but increasing every year, which is in line with her long-term business plans. "Our goal is to expand in a sustainable way while maintaining the quality and character of our single estate tea," she says. Although it remains a very niche industry, both Holley and Henderson emphasize the positive collaboration and camarade- rie between growers. In fact, Henderson's work with Tea Scot- land indicates a possible way forward: because each farm might produce only a kilo or two per year, it makes sense for several growers to combine harvests to ensure enough production to meet supply needs. Scotland is an unusual tea-producing country, and will un- doubtedly stay very niche due to the sheer number of obstacles involved. But while a truly viable Scottish-grown tea sector might take a long time to establish, those involved are dedicated to making it work. Joanne Holley runs the Scottish Tea House in Lanarkshire, south of Glasgow, and offers afternoon tea, tastings, and tours of the tea garden to help supplement income for the farm. Photo courtesy the Scottish Tea House

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