STiR coffee and tea magazine

18 STiR coffee and tea | 2025 Quarter 2 Summer (Jun/jul/Aug) By Bhavi Patel Dona Aideau is a tea producer, taster, sommelier, and educator from Assam, India, cur- rently living in Pondicherry. She belongs to the Tai Community of Assam. Her ancestor, Sukaphaa, was the leader of the Tai group, and his followers established the Ahom kingdom (1228–1826 CE), which controlled much of the Brahmaputra Valley in Assam until 1826. Eight hundred years ago, the Tai carried tea with them from Mong Mao (Yunnan, China) to Assam and have been harvesting and brewing tea since then. STiR: Tea production is becoming increasingly challenging. What inspired you to continue produc- ing and expand your business? Dona: Despite the hurdles, my inspiration to continue as a producer stems from both a deep-rooted legacy and an unwavering passion for tea. As a 4th-generation tea planter and a certified Tea Taster by the Tea Board of India, I feel a profound con- nection to this craft. My forefathers were deeply rooted in cultivating and drinking tea in the Brahmaputra Valley long before it became a globally traded commodity. My great-grandfather was among the pioneering tea planters, and my family has dedicated their lives to crafting some of the finest teas. This legacy is not just a family tradition; it's a responsibility I hold dear—to preserve our heritage and honor the culture that has been built over generations. STiR: How did you develop the idea of building gastronomical experiences around tea? Dona: Like wine, tea possesses complex properties that can be paired with food to elevate the dining experience. By selecting teas that complement specific dishes, we Q&A with Tea Sommelier Dona Aideau Dona Aideau explores tea's role in gastronomy by creating unique culinary experiences. can enhance the flavors and aromas on the plate, creating a harmonious balance that enriches the meal. Unlike wine, however, tea clears the mind, offering a refined tasting experience without the effects of intoxication. The gastronomic space also provides an excellent platform to introduce tea and highlight the diversity of Indian terroirs. It is a unique opportunity to showcase how India's varied climates, al- titudes, and soils influence the character of each tea, offering a sensory journey through its regions. Beyond tasting, it's a way to discuss tea's rich history and educate people about its cultural and culinary significance, celebrating the endless possibilities it holds both in and beyond the cup. STiR: Tea is generally considered a poor man's or a working person's drink. How do you work around that to create exclusive gastronomical experiences? Dona: Tea is consumed across all economic classes and cultures, serving as a unifying beverage that transcends social divides. In public spaces, tea often becomes a meeting point and a break spot for working people—a role that is not a bad representation of tea, but one that is sometimes diminished by the low quality of tea offered by these busi- nesses. Similarly, the elite in the country also appreciate the sweet comfort of a Tea's natural sweetness, earthy tones, and floral accents elevate the flavors of chocolate, while its astringency and tannins cut through the richness of cheese. Q A

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