Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/1539374
40 STiR coffee and tea | 2025 Quarter 3 Autumn (Sep/Oct/Nov) Before social media virality, matcha remained confined to traditional tea schools and chado prac- titioners. Few outsiders understood its cultural significance or proper preparation methods. The sudden global spotlight transforms sacred tradi- tions into commercial commodities. Traditional tea masters who dedicated a lifetime to perfecting their craft now watch their precious products disappear overseas while local communi- ties lose access to their own cultural heritage. The irony cuts deep; international appreciation threatens the very traditions it claims to honor. Marketing Myths and Hoarding Behaviors Distort Markets The matcha industry proliferates misleading mar- keting claims that confuse consumers worldwide. "Ceremonial grade" represents the most persistent myth plaguing authentic matcha appreciation. No official grading system exists for matcha classifi- cation in Japan. Traditional producers simply dis- tinguish between matcha meant for thick tea (koi- cha), thin tea (usucha), and matcha meant to be used as a flavoring for lattes and food. Japanese Producers Face Mixed Fortunes The matcha boom creates complex outcomes for Japanese producers. Several industry sectors experience different impacts, explains Chun. "There are mul- tiple levels of producers or roles in the industry — farms, primary processing factories, refinement factories, and grinding factories." All participants benefit financially but face burnout. "I would say that all those involved are both making money and extremely stressed," Chun notes. However, farmers receive the fewest benefits from matcha production. "The vast majority of the industry at the farm and primary processing factory level are not involved in the production of matcha, so do not benefit from this boom," he clarifies. This creates income inequality within Japan's tea industry. Hsu observes that Japanese producers initially benefited significantly. However, rising costs now erode these advantages. "Once the shortage ap- peared, increasing costs cut into final profits," he explains. Petersen emphasizes the cultural significance of this revival. "Many pro- ducers had reduced or quit real matcha production, as resource investment is high and the domestic demand for real matcha was declining," she notes. International demand now preserves traditional production methods. Industry Transformation Risks Cultural Heritage Paradoxically, the matcha boom threatens traditional Japanese tea culture. Chun expresses deep concerns about long-term consequences. Converting all tea production to export-focused matcha could devastate domestic markets. "If Japan converts its entire tea production to an export crop to fulfill global demand for matcha, that would leave a hollow domestic market and the destruction of a culture spanning centuries," he warns. This cultural dimension extends beyond commercial considerations. Japa- nese tea ceremonies represent centuries of refined tradition. Mass commer- cialization significantly risks diluting these cultural practices. Producers face difficult choices between immediate profits and cultural pres- ervation. Short-term financial gains might compromise long-term cultural sustain- ability. The industry needs a careful balance between growth and tradition. The cultural impact becomes starkly visible in Uji and other traditional tea regions. Tea tourists arrive expecting authentic matcha experiences, only to find empty shelves. Historic tea shops that served generations now display apologetic signs explaining shortages. These establishments built reputations over centuries, serving local communities and tea ceremony practitioners. Elyse Petersen, founder of Tealet, a market leader for direct trade tea, has been working with farmers in Japan for over a decade. Photo credit: Tealet Farmers in the Uji area have practiced kabuse (tea shading) for centuries as a way to enhance the flavor and color of the tea while reducing bitterness. Photo credit: Tealet

