STiR coffee and tea magazine

Volume 14, Number 4 / Winter 2025

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40 STiR coffee and tea | 2025 Quarter 4 Winter (Dec/Jan/Feb) Dobrá čajovna is one of Prague's oldest tea houses. Photo credit: Dobrá čajovna s.r.o. Pioneer of Czech tea house culture, Petr Zelík, is the founder of OXALIS. Photo credit: Petr Zelík Agha Mithra — passionate tea enthusiast, artisan creator, and organizer of Prague Tea Fest. Photo credit: Agha Mithra Tea Houses as Cultural Anchors This blend of tradition and innovation is perhaps nowhere more evident than in Prague's tea houses themselves. While the modern tea house movement emerged after 1989, Prague's tea culture has deeper roots. "Tea culture in Prague goes back over 100 years," reveals Mithra. "I've seen old postcards of tea houses from the 19th century. Prague's tea houses are cultural institutions. Their emergence in the early 1990s was closely tied to the Velvet Revolution and the country's sudden opening after decades of isolation. For many Czechs, this marked the beginning of a new era defined by free- dom, travel, and cultural discovery. "Before the revolution, there were no tea houses and only a few people interested in Asian culture and tea," recalls Jiri Melzer, a Czech-born tea importer and ceramics expert based in Germany. "Three of those enthusiasts used to meet regularly to taste tea and exchange ideas. After 1989, they wanted to create a space for others to join this exchange, which led to the founding of Dobrá čajovna on Wenceslas Square." Tea became a transformation symbol. Young travelers returned from Asia with tea leaves and a fascination for tea rituals. Unlike pub culture, tea houses offered quieter spaces for gathering, learning, and connecting. "It also helped that there were hardly any cafés or similar venues after the revolu- tion," Melzer adds. "There was no competition, so tea houses spread quickly across the country." This spirit of exploration shaped the first generation of Czech tea houses, many of which are still operating today. Their eclectic interiors reflect global influences. The tea served wasn't just a beverage — it was a bridge to the wider world. "Each tea house is unique," says Melzer. "There's so much diversity." "In Prague, tea houses have always been cozy and intimate," adds Mithra. "You walk in and it feels like someone's living room — dim lighting, incense, floor seating. It's not about being fancy or polished, but about creating a warm, welcoming space." "The Czech tea house model has inspired similar scenes abroad," says Zelík. "Es- pecially in university towns in the US, where young people gather to exchange ideas — just like in Prague in the 1990s." Festivals as a Mirror of the Scene Prague hosts two established tea festivals reflecting the diversity of Czech tea culture. The summer Čajomír Fest is a community-driven outdoor gathering with tastings, music, and open exchange. The winter counterpart, Prague Tea Fest, was launched in 2023 by Agha Mithra to complement Čajomír with a more structured format. Held in a historic venue near Karlin Square, it features international exhibitors, curated tastings, and educational workshops. "I was inspired by the passion for tea and the community around it," explains Mithra. "I saw how many people wanted to learn more, taste more, and experience tea in deeper ways. The festival feels more international than Czech. In the first years, only about 20% of attendees were Czech. People came from Canada, the US, Singapore, and all over Europe." These festivals illustrate Czech tea culture's dual character: grassroots and globally connected. They serve as important platforms for producers, importers, and educators to engage directly with consumers. Shaping the Market: Key Players and Their Influence The Czech specialty tea market is shaped by companies combining commercial suc- cess with cultural engagement. Among them, OXALIS, founded by Petr Zelík in 1993, has become one of the country's leading importers and retailers of loose-leaf Camellia sinensis teas. OXALIS operates stores, supplies retailers, and exports internationally, pioneering the Czech tea house movement in the 1990s. The company emphasizes direct trade, quality control, and consumer education. "About 85% of tea sold in the Czech Repub- lic is in tea bags," explains Zelík. "Demand for loose-leaf tea is still niche but growing — increasingly through online channels."

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