Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/245704
QUIET ON VINEYARD cont. Cheval, Kiona, and Klipsun, Aquilini's status as a new entrant means it will have to build confidence in its ability to manage and produce top-quality fruit from its properties. This is different from the approach taken by many new entrants to the state that enjoy greater name recognition— one thinks of Bonny Doon's launch of Pacific Rim as well as the new Canvasback project Duckhorn Vineyards is launching with Red Mountain fruit. To some extent, E&J Gallo's streamlining of the offerings of Columbia Winery is possible largely because of the larger reputation of the parent company backing it up. (Gallo has reduced the number of wine types they are producing at Columbia Winery, reportedly focusing more on red varieties.) Aquilini hasn't set a timeline for the development of its new holdings, but given the dearth of available plant material in the state, the family will likely proceed at a pace that may actually support a gradual integration into the local industry. Yak ima Riv er Benton City • DUCKHORN'S plans abernet Sauvignon is a popular choice for Red Mountain vineyards. The grape is able to build on the mountain's reputation for grapes that yield wines high in tannin and good concentration of flavors. While the winemaker plays a role in styling the final wine, the old adage that wine is made in the vineyard has truth on Red Mountain where winds sweeping across the interior plateau of eastern Washington have deposited a rich blend of sand, silt, and loam. The winds also toughen skins of local grapes, contributing to the intense characters of the wines they yield. Small wonder wineries such as Hedges Family Estate and Col Solare, a partnership of Chateau Ste. Michelle and the Antinori family of Italy, have found the mountain's slopes ideal for their vineyards. Sandwiched between the two is Duckhorn Vineyards of St. Helena, California, which was one of the bidders that lost out to the Aquilini group during the Kennewick Irrigation District's land auction in November. It recently secured 20 acres for the launch of its new Washington State brand, Canvasback. The property will be planted primarily to Cabernet Sauvignon, allowing Duckhorn to craft Washington State wines that complement its existing production in Napa. Grapes were purchased from Red Mountain growers in 2012 and 2013 for the initial wines from the new label, and the experience with these—being made at Artifex Wine Company in Walla Walla—will guide what Duckhorn does with fruit from the property it now owns. Canvasback's first wines will be released later this year, but there are no immediate plans for a winery. —P. Mitham C 22 FEBRUARY 1, 2014 GOOD FRUIT GROWER www.goodfruit.com