Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/335336
JULY 2014 | BRAVAMAGAZINE.COM 41 If you had to describe Tami Lax in a single word, it would be "gracious." Chef and proprietor of Madison's Har- VESTˬNDŀE0LD'ˬSHIONEDRESTˬURˬNTS Lax's commitment to local farmers, her guests' happiness and the health of the community at large is evident in every ac- tion. She greeted old friends and strang- ers with equal enthusiasm and embraced farmers she hadn't seen recently as we strolled the market on a Wednesday. Lax buys directly from farms most days due to the volume of produce needed for both restaurants, and also because she dislikes wiping out certain varieties from the farm stands, which leaves nothing for home cooks. She spreads her purchases around to increase the sustainability of many farms. Lax's favorite thing about owning a restaurant that focuses on Wis- consin's seasonal offerings (besides the unbelievable produce) is "building rela- tionships with farmers," visiting their land, helping with harvest and deepen- ing connections to our state's food and growers. Picking a favorite Wisconsin summer- time offering is impossible—she loves what each phase brings as strawberries fade into cherries and spinach gives up the stage for sweet peppers. At sum- mer's end, Lax goes into a frenzied state of gathering and preserving produce the restaurant will use all winter. 0NHERHOMETˬBLEMEˬLSˬREOFTEN "fast and furious"—simple salads, shell beans with olive oil and herbs, or ripe summer fruit paired with bitter greens. When she has the luxury of time (usually on Sundays), she makes a summer mine- strone or a big pot of chicken and vegeta- bles. Lax says her family adores cooking, "When we're eating lunch, we're talking about what we want to make for dinner." When produce is at its peak, she em- phasizes "less is more." To enjoy it, keep the pantry stocked with a good fruity ol- ive oil, high-quality vinegar and salt, and master a basic vinaigrette that changes up with different fresh herbs. And, she adds, "Don't be afraid to eat things raw." CHEF TAMI LAX OF HARVEST AND THE OLD FASHIONED The Taste of Local Traditions