Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/491365
50 STiR tea & coffee industry international India's Top Coffee Exporters Allanasons Ltd., Bangalore CCL Products (India) Ltd., Hyderabad NKG Jayanti Coffee Pvt. Ltd., Bangalore Tata Coffee Ltd., Bangalore Amalgamated Bean Coffee Trading Co., Bangalore OLAM Agro India Ltd., Bangalore S.L.N. Coffee Pvt. Ltd., Kushalnagar Nestle India Ltd., Bangalore ECOM Gill Coffee Trading Pvt. Ltd., Bangalore NED Commodities India Pvt. Ltd., Kushalnagar ITC Ltd., Secunderabad Exporters ranked by volume 2012-13. Includes green, ground, roast and soluble coffee. Source: Coffee Board of India. Michael Branham at SCAA Special Cupping of India coffee, robusta below. sEATTLE, WAsH. – India has pr oduced eye-opening coffee for a cent ur y but Amer - ican roasters are only now awakening to its potential. Ranadey Exports in Bangalore and Portland, Ore. based Karnataka Plantation Coffee, Inc. in April hosted a special cupping of India coffees during the Specialty Coffee Association of America's annual conference. Their washed Arabica and high-grown robustas drew praise from connoisseurs and the two dozen curious roasters who attended. India offers a broad range of estate processed Arabica from elevations to 6,500 feet where robusta also thrives under an ancient forest canopy protected by government edict. The country also exports some uniquely cured coffees such as Mysore Nuggets Extra Bold, Robusta Kaapi Royale, and Monsooned Malabar. Roasters in attendance, such as Dan Welch of World Cup Coffee & Tea, who uses India coffee in his espresso blends, praised the "cherry" Arabica for its patio-dried earthiness, rounded soft characteristics and hints of spice. Michael Branham, v.p. of Karnataka Plantation Coffee in Portland, Ore., first im- ported Indian coffee in 2004. His shade-grown washed robusta was well received. "So many people did not expect it to taste that good," said Branham. His robusta grows above 3,500 feet and is processed identically to washed Arabica, he explained. The group also cupped "cherry" (natural) robusta which "is a little bit sweeter than washed." This is because the beans remain in longer contact with the fruit during fermentation, he said. Dr. Joseph John, founder of Josuma Coffee Co. in 1992 in Menlo Park, Calif., and a life-long enthusiast of Indian coffee, points out that premium washed Robusta Kaapi Royale, "is arguably the most refined, and therefore, the most expensive robusta in the world. As a component in an espresso blend, these robustas add to the caffeine con- tent for that extra kick one looks for in an espresso. The robusta also helps neutralize the milk flavors in cappuccinos and lattes," he explained. "Contrary to popular belief, these robustas do not necessarily produce more crema, but they do make the crema, produced by the natural arabica in the blend, last much longer." Roasters like the coffee of India's distinctive flavor. "These coffees have little more 'earthiness' that blends well with Caribbean, South American, and African coffee, something you don't get from other coffees. It is a flavor that stays with you, a nice feeling that lingers on the tongue," said Branhnam. Selling his first container 10 years ago convinced Branham there was a market for Indian coffee and in 2005 he landed several more shipments from Ujwala Ranade Malvi, director of Ranadey Exports. He estimates imports are increasing 5% annually. Veteran coffee broker V. E. Ovian at Indcaffe in Bangalore, concurs. Indcaffe now facilitates more than 16,000 metric tons in contracts, annually. "We have been success- ful in introducing Indian coffee in newer markets across Europe and North America – and we're doing this with a much better (price) realization," says Ovian. "What's clearly noticeable is the steady and consistent volume increase of specialty coffees - and that's very encouraging, indeed," he adds. American roasters are ordering more Indian coffees because these are "some of the most balanced coffees available, where all the properties, such as acidity, body, aroma, taste, and after taste are in perfect harmony, with none of them overpowering one's pal- ate," explains Josuma's Dr. John, adding, high acidity is not desirable in a quality espresso. "Espresso has to be low in acidity, high in body, with intense flavors and a pleasant, long after taste. Artisan coffee roasters see no virtue in the light roasted single-origin "acid bombs" promoted by many of the third wave cafes, he said. India's Pride Stateside By Dan Bolton Breakdown of India Coffee Exports of Green Arabica and Green Robusta (60-kilo sacks) Oct-13 May-13 Oct-12 May-12 to to to to Apr-14 Apr-14 Apr-14 Apr-13 Apr-13 Apr-13 IndiaTotal 398,417 222,3092 3,651,856 456,997 2,065,662 3,572,975 Washed Arabicas (W) 107,654 558,859 870,727 91,688 457,131 850,096 Dry Arabicas (D) 31,130 187,684 227,349 10,945 119,432 119,432 Robutas (D/W) 259,633 1,476,549 2,553,781 354,364 1,489,098 2,603,447