STiR coffee and tea magazine

Volume 4, Number 1

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46 STiR tea & coffee industry international engaging in direct sales to the end consumer, these roasters ad- ditionally cater to independent cafés, too, which is a great way to keep the market competitive. "While some [independent] cafés lock in contracts, many others prefer to leave them open so they can switch between roasters, encouraging [their suppliers to produce consistently] high quality coffee. There are a handful of coffee chains, but they're mainly restricted to high street areas and shopping cen- ters," explains Williams. Hunker down in the bunker Multi roaster Bunker Coffee operates in a Brisbane neighborhood – and never was a venue name chosen more aptly. As the com- pany name suggests, the café literally occupies a bunker built by a local resident in the 1940s as a tiny, reinforced concrete air raid shelter in fear of bombings by the Imperial Japanese Air Force. Neglected and decaying for decades, Bunker Coffee eventu- ally took over the location. Renovated and decorated by owner Marcus Allison, it is probably the most unusual coffee-only shop in the whole country. "The walls and ceiling are covered in a creeping fig inside and out. The fit-out was built by myself and consists of wood, rusted steel and natural stone. The ambience is relaxed and down to Earth, yet extremely quality-focused," Allison proudly describes the prevailing atmosphere. The interior space is a miniscule 15 square meters with seat- ing for five customers. But outside along both the vine-covered walls to the left and right of the open-fronted entrance Allison has set up benches and stools under large sunshades that can accommodate a further 15 to 20 coffee aficionados. Welcoming a steady trickle of local business workers and residents through- out the day, as well as tourists, Bunker Coffee Café obviously thrives on an almost palpable community spirit. This is a place where one meets old friends and makes new ones, engaging in a friendly chat while enjoying a great cup of coffee. While space is extremely limited, this is more than compen- sated by the amazing weekly line-up of different coffees. "As a multi-roaster, we curate the offerings from Australia's leading roasters. Each week, we offer a total of five coffees from two different roasters and rotate through twelve roasters over 12 weeks. Occasionally we even bring in coffees from world- renowned roasters abroad. As far as I know, no other café cur- rently has a coffee program this ambitious," said Allison. His staff of five baristas serves 400 coffees a day, requiring approxi- mately 200 kilos of coffee a month. Word of mouth works best Bunker Coffee recently started offering its own ready-to-drink iced coffee; filter coffee and chocolate milk in 330ml glass bottles. But marketing is primarily word of mouth "and through articles such as this one" as Allison puts it. "Our vision is for constant improvement and re-evaluation. Obviously, the aesthetic of our shop is what really sets us apart from our competitors. After that, our coffee rotation, quality control, professional staff, and unique ambience is what hopefully keeps people coming back." Dandelion & Driftwood, another popular Brisbane café, started as a coffee roastery before opening a café under its name, exclusively serving its own coffee products. The cafés positioning statement "Aaaaahhhhhhhh, simple pleasures…" apparently represents the sigh of pleasure from the first sip of an exceptional coffee, according to creative direc- tor Penny Wolff, who co-owns and operates the venue with her husband Peter, a certified master roaster who created the Dan- delion & Driftwood brand."It's the way it makes you feel, the magic of that glorious cup in your hand - and that is the essence of the Dandelion and Driftwood business!" she elaborates. Comfortable environs Of course, that magic also immediately envelopes a customer as soon as they step over the threshold. The café emanates tem- pered yesteryear elegance seamlessly interwoven with warm, homely unpretentiousness. Fabric chairs, vintage pressed-metal feature walls, and old-style bar counter lighting: This is a place where one wants to settle down for a while, a venue that pushes the boundaries between old and new and merges old-school ser- vice with a modern twist. "Our mission is to understand the coffee consumer and to empower each and every customer by offering high-quality single-origin and blended coffee. We aim to widen their palate experiences and encourage them to explore options at a level that will continue to vibrate with them," said Penny Wolff. Know thy coffee The café exclusively serves coffee roasted by Peter Wolff, both special blends and an array of single-origin coffees that change every couple of days. Packaged ground or whole-bean coffee for home are sold, too, and each pack comes with cupping ,notes and additional information on origin, estate, altitude, variety, and processing. "It's all about being completely transparent, sharing the knowl- edge and allowing the customer to make a judgment about what it is that they are after all consuming," explains Penny Wolff. For example, the company's Dandelion Blend focuses on the feminine and imparts a delicate fruitiness and brightness that is both memorable and comforting, while the Driftwood Blend is decidedly more masculine, a robust and earthy aroma sensation that – in the words of Penny Wolff – "explodes in your mouth giving you a risky action hero experience." Unlike Bunker Coffee, Dandelion & Driftwood Café be- longs in the "coffee-and-food" category that is so dominant across Australia. A quick glance at the establishment's menu re- veals "Granny's Famous Savoury Mince", the "Big Bad Wolff Sandwich", and the mouth-watering "Creamy Chicken & Leek Pie", which together with some 20 other, equally delectable dish- es can be ordered all day long. Fill'er up, please! Almost ingenious in its nature is Dandelion & Driftwood's "cof- fee refill" offer. Customer can purchase an amber-colored glass bottle filled with freshly brewed coffee of their choice and take it home. Once emptied, they simply take that re-useable bottle back to the café and have it re-filled. Penny Wolff: "It is like in the olden days when you would pull up at the service station for [car] fuel and say '$10 refill' or '$20 refill'."

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