Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/497437
www.goodfruit.com Good Fruit Grower MAY 1, 2015 35 Phenolic development U nderstanding when key phenolics develop in red wine grape varietals and how they are influenced can help growers and winemakers decide when to perform cultural tasks and when to pick. Phenolics are a group of chemicals responsible for the sensory aspects of wine—color, smell, flavor, and mouth feel. In red wine grape varietals, anthocyanins are responsible for color, and tannins give fruit and wine astringency or bitterness. The key development stage for anthocyanins is from veraison to harvest, while accumulation of tan- nins starts in the fruit skin at fruit set and continues until slightly after veraison, according to Dr. James Harbertson, Washington State University extension enologist. Seed tannin accumulation starts at fruit set, reaches a maximum at veraison, and then declines, he noted. Anthocyanin develop- ment needs light, which the grower can influence through canopy density and leaf removal. Anthocyanin develop- ment is also dependent on temperature (not too cold, not too hot), nutrition, and water deficit. Because too much nitrogen interferes with anthocyanins, he recommends that growers apply no more than 50 pounds of nitrogen per acre. Deficit irrigation can increase anthocyanin if the vine receives less water than it needs from fruit set to veraison and after veraison to harvest. But Harbertson warned that anthocyanin production is hindered if deficit irrigation is applied during veraison. Skin tannin levels are increased if deficit irrigation strategies are applied early and throughout the season, but not at veraison. If water is withheld during veraison, skin tannins are lowered. Seed tannins are not directly affected by cultural practices, and are only impacted by the change in berry size. In general, he found that steady warm periods from bloom to veraison favor skin tannin production, while cool periods from veraison to harvest favor anthocyanin production. —M. Hansen James Harbertson was built. The winery was closed during Prohibition and rebonded in 1962 by new partners. Though the original vines are long gone, some vines that were planted in 1949 are still in production. The estate vineyards, at elevations of 1,400 to 2,700 feet, are 15 air miles to the Pacific Ocean but located in a rain shadow. The high elevation and marine influence give cool nights that help fruit maintain its acidity. The 2011 vintage was one of the wet- test and coolest in 75 years. Yields in 2011 averaged 2 tons per acre because of excessive soil moisture. In contrast, 2013 was very warm and dry and brought the earliest harvest ever (September 7). Because their vineyards are primarily dry-land farmed without irrigation, vines struggled to reach 1.5 tons per acre in 2013. Growing degree-days between 2011 and 2013 differed by nearly 300 heat units—2,400 and 2,700, respectively— and alcohol levels of Cabernet Sauvignon wines were a full percent different (12.8 and 13.8 percent). "Our goal is to not let the fruit get overripe," Draper said. Their wine- making approach follows minimalistic techniques of the 19th century. They use few additives and the least intrusive of modern equipment. Ridge Vineyards is one of the few wineries in the nation that lists wine ingredients on their labels. "There is a market out there for wines from cool regions, and for wines in the 13 percent alcohol range," he said. "We have a large market in the European Union and in the United States for our style of wine." (The Ridge Vineyards website prices Cabernet Sauvignon wines from 2011 for $165, $103, $85, and a members-only offering for $55.) Ridge Vineyards made a name for itself during the 1976 Paris wine tasting that became known as the Judgment of Paris. The tasting pitted six California wines against eight French wines. Ridge Vineyards' 1971 Monte Bello Cabernet placed in the middle. Thirty years later, the tasting was reenacted with simulta- neous tastings of the original red wines in the United States and United Kingdom. This time, Ridge Vineyards was named the winning wine in both tastings. The 1971 Ridge Cabernet alcohol level, at 35 years old, was 12.2 percent. He said their traditional approach to winemaking—with minimal inter- vention—results in wines that can age a minimum of ten years. He believes Washington wineries can make the same kind of wines without using today's full array of processing and additives. • "All of our wind machines are Orchard-Rite ." "All of our wind machines are Orchard-Rite ® ." —BOB BAILEY Orchard View Farms The Dalles, Oregon "We have 1,300 acres of cherries with 31 wind machines spread out over 20 miles. All of our wind machines are Orchard-Rite ® with the Auto-Start feature. 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