Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/50987
Jack, left, and Greg Jones moved the Jones of Washington winery from Quincy to the J & S Crushing facility in Mattawa in 2008. NOTHING AVERAGE about Jones Jones of Washington is about the grapes and wines, not the sophisticated, fancy trappings that often get entwined with sampling wine. And instead of being located on winery row, nestled next to other T wineries, the Jones of Washington tasting room is located on "produce row," tucked on the outside of a cold storage building sandwiched in a series of fruit and vegetable packing and processing facilities on the main highway heading west out of Quincy, Washington. Depending on the time of year, visitors may have to dodge apple or cherry bins being moved about the cold storage rooms. If one hasn't yet made the connection that Jones of Washington emphasizes the growing side of wine, just look at their wine bottle labels—an early model tractor, rooster, and sunshine. The agricultural theme is also found on their reserve and estate vineyard wines, though the label is etched on the bottle instead of printed paper. Jones of Washington is a family-owned and -operated winery, produc- ing in excess of 8,000 cases annually. Wines have won awards from major Northwest, California, and Dallas, Texas, wine competitions. The 2010 Pinot Gris was selected Best White Wine and Best Washington Wine over- all at the Northwest Wine Summit in Hood River, Oregon. Two of the Jones of Washington wines—its Syrah and Riesling—were selected to be part of industry educational sessions that focused on regional differences and winemaking styles of the two varieties. The market reach of the wines is primarily concentrated in the Pacific Northwest. To learn more, visit www.jonesofwashington.com. —M. Hansen Greg, who received a horticultural degree from Washington State University, monitors shoot growth during the season and uses regulated deficit irrigation on the red varieties to help control vine and canopy growth. Capacitance soil moisture sensors placed throughout the vineyards help guide his irri- gation scheduling, though he still uses a shovel and visual vine observations when making irrigation decisions. Much of their grape plantings were originally quarter sections (160 acres) of field crops grown under center pivot irrigation called circles. When circles were converted to grapes, pivots were removed and replaced with drip irrigation. About 150 acres of apples have also been converted to vineyards. Greg recently purchased two mechanical leafers to remove leaves, opening up the canopy for disease control and creating a more uniform sun exposure on the clusters. Leaves are removed on the morning sun side, but he allows a few extra shoots on the afternoon sun side to provide "fluff" for sunburn protection. A hedger is used to trim any long, hanging shoots that may shade the canopy. "Each year is different, but you have to have a strategy for what you're after in the vine- yard," he said, adding that he has a targeted tonnage and quality style for each vineyard. Yields from the 2011 harvest have been better than he expected, considering last year's November freeze and this year's cool growing season. Large-scale trial In the last five years, Greg has planted trials of clones (Merlot, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon) and lesser-known varieties to see how they respond to Wahluke Slope growing conditions. His test vineyard of five-acre variety blocks are a winemaker's dream because the quantities produced amount to about a tank full of wine, enough for serious experimentation. Most other test plots consist of a row or so of a new variety, not five acres. Varieties under trial include Grenache, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Roussanne, Marsanne, Cinsault, Counoise, and Mourvèdre. From the trial, Greg has learned that Mourvèdre, a dark-skinned, Rhone vari- ety, has trouble ripening in a cool year. "The other varieties are doing okay, but I would recommend not planting Mourvèdre," he said. Jack made his first move into winemaking in 2001, establishing the Jones of Washington winery in Quincy. He was motivated to start a winery when a handshake contract for 300 acres of grapes did not materialize, leaving him without a home for his grapes. He scrambled to find a winery for them, grate- ful that Ste. Michelle Wine Estates was willing to work with him on a year-by-year contract, which has subsequently developed into a long-term contract. In the early years of Jones of Washington winery, Ron Bunnell, wine consultant from Prosser, served as winemaker and consultant. Greg worked with Bunnell in all aspects of winemaking, which has proved valuable in helping him understand what winemakers want in their grapes. In 2008, Jack partnered with Dick Shaw, a Mattawa grower, and converted an onion and potato warehouse in Mattawa into J & S Crushing, one of the largest custom bulk wineries in the state. Greg and Victor Palencia, current winemaker at Jones of Washington and head winemaker of J & S, work as a team in the vineyard. "Greg's a huge asset in making decisions," said Palencia, who joined the winery in 2008. "He understands the vine but also the flavor profiles that I'm looking for." Conversely, Greg said he appreciates Victor's unique talent in bringing the berry to the bottle. • Center: Cinsault, a grape from southern France often used in blending, is one of many varieties Greg Jones has under trial. The red variety is known for its tolerance to heat and drought. Bottom: Large 36,000-gallon wine fermentation tanks sit inside what used to be an onion and potato warehouse. www.goodfruit.com GOOD FRUIT GROWER DECEMBER 2011 41 "Each year is different, but you have to have a strategy for what you're after in the vineyard." —Greg Jones he tasting room for Jones of Washington wines has no Mediterranean architecture, marble floor, or exquisite wood for the tasting bar, nor expansive windows to showcase views of the vineyard. The focus at