StateWays is the only magazine exclusively covering the control state system within the beverage alcohol industry, with annual updates from liquor control commissions and alcohol control boards and yearly fiscal reporting from control jurisdictions
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StateWays ■ www.stateways.com ■ January/February 2016 30 century, which brought in a few dozen brands, has waned. Volume for the top six brands fell last year from 61,000 cases to 59,000, with only a few brands promotionally active nationally. Smaller brands do well in markets like Florida, where South American populations support a broader selection. Bar placements have dipped too, al- though fans of the Caipirinha (a mix of mint, limes sugar and cachaça) remain. Leblon, now owned by Bacardi, sells 34,000 cases in the U.S., up three percent last year. Aged briefl y in Cognac barrels, the brand is conducting "Art of Cachaça" classes at retail where consumers learn how it is made and partici- pate in making Caipirinhas. They receive a kit with mud- dler, glassware/shaker, recipe book and bag. Leblon plans to offer the kit next year as a value-added pack at retail in advance of the Olympics in Brazil. MIXED MEZCAL Unlike its more famous mono-varietal offspring, tequila, mezcal can be made from about 30 varieties of the agave species, most taking between eight to 12 years to mature before the harvesting, cooking and fermenting needed be- fore distillation. Around 85 percent of volume comes from the espadin variety. But while most brands don't specify varietals and use a mix, those made from tobala, dobadaan, dasylirion, madre cuixe, tobaziche and other species are now emerg- ing from the seven Mexican states where production is al- lowed, with more than 90 percent coming from the state of Oaxaca. Mezcal is made artisanally, or industrially in large commercial facilities. As for its long-time reputation as fi rewater with the aroma of smoldering tires, these are still considered pow- erful spirits, with even the better-made variations coming to the U.S. retaining a punchy essence. Mezcal gets its smokiness from an ancient production method – agaves are slowly roasted in an underground pit, sometimes for days, usually with mesquite or oak. Then they are crushed under a large stone wheel called a tahona, the juice often fermented in wooden tanks before being distilled twice. Recently, the introduction of attractive packaging, dif- ferent varietals and a range of styles has made the category more interesting – Fidencio, for instance, is made "sin humo," without smoke, and there are brands at various proofs, prices and ages available. Leading brands Monte Alban (up 14 percent to 40,000 cases) and Gusano Rojo (up 28 percent to 9,000) grew on modest volume, while Wild Shot remained at 4,000 cases last year. Meanwhile, smaller brands like Del Maguey, Ilegal, Los Amantes and Scorpion showed very strong growth based on control state data. In its 20th year, Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal continues its predominantly on-premise focus, but hosts trade-focused tastings, events and educational seminars, including outreach to the off-premise. Merchandising on- shelf and retail tastings also take place in key markets and accounts, with shelf talkers and POS. BILLIONS IN BAIJIU Baijiu is the largest-selling spirit category in the world - an estimated $23 billion was spent last year according to one estimate - with almost all being consumed in China where it is distilled. Made primarily from sorghum, the hundreds of iterations can also include (based on region- al preference) wheat, rice, barley, rice and corn and other starchy ingredients. Usually high-proof (around 50 ABV) with very assertive and pungent fl avors and aromas, the spirit is not usually considered appealing to most Westerners. Baijiu is pri- marily a celebratory spirit, consumed in tiny cups of less than an ounce, drunk in one shot after another as part of a toasting ritual that goes on throughout a meal. Baijiu comes in a variety of styles: the best known is called sauce aroma, but others include light aroma, sesame aroma and rice aroma. Moutai is the world's best known brand, made from sor- ghum and barley in a process that involves eight fermenta- tions and seven distillation. Recently, newer brands meant for the export market have been developed. Currently, HKB has hired a full-time brand ambassador for the U.S., who has recently been conducting in-store tastings. IMPORTED SPIRITS