StateWays is the only magazine exclusively covering the control state system within the beverage alcohol industry, with annual updates from liquor control commissions and alcohol control boards and yearly fiscal reporting from control jurisdictions
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35 StateWays n www.stateways.com n January/February 2016 superb wine come from four estates across Burgundy. A bright ruby color. Aromas of not-quite-ripe berry and cherry meld with hints of chalk, loam, and flint which says "Burgundy." Deli- cate flavors of red fruits coat the palate, showing strong in the middle, and finish- ing with firm tannins and more terroir. This is a classic "old-world" Bourgogne Rouge. The 2012 vintage will develop beautifully for five more years, easily. An excellent value. ($20) (95) Buisson-Charles Bougogne-Pinot Noir Hautes Coutures 2012. Buisson-Charles is a small producer in Meursault who sources fruit from several small proper- ties. The color is dark ruby. Aromas of raspberry, apple, and cherry blend with floral notes and spice. On the palate, sweet/tart fruit flavors harmonize with hints of allspice and some earthiness. The texture is lush and silky, ending with firm tannins and a hint of blueberry. This is true Bourgogne Rouge in a mod- ern style that still respects the terroir. Very nice now, it will be exceptional in five to seven years. ($33) (95) Manuel Olivier Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits 2011. Olivier macerates the grapes for 15 days, then matures half of the wine in stainless steel vats and the other half in oak barrels. The finished wine is fruit-forward, but per- fectly balanced with supple tannins. Richly aromatic and flavorful with nu- ances of blackberry and black cherry, tempered with a hint of toastiness. A hint of mocha/coffee shows on the very end. The underlying notes of mineral- ity throughout tell me that this is real Burgundy. If you cellar this for three to five years, you'll be well rewarded. ($29) (94) Frescobaldi Pinot Nero 2011 (Pom- ino, Tuscany, Italy). From the renowned Frescobaldi family of Tuscany comes a pinot noir, from a region better known for Sangiovese. Elegant, structured and oh-so-very delicious. More than a mere curiosity, it's a wonderful example of what intelligent vineyard practices, and careful winemaking, can achieve. ($30) (94) Gottardi Blauburgunder 2012, (Alto Adige, Italy). A lovely pinot noir from a region known for its cool climate. Supple, with good acid and tannins, the wine showcases the variety, while demonstrating what northern Italy can bring to the pinot noir table. ($62) (93) Dierberg Drum Canyon Pinot Noir 2012 (Sta. Rita Hills). This is a beauti- fully balanced wine, having been aged 18 months in oak. On the nose, you will find black fruit and raspberry with notes of roasted coffee. On the palate, you will taste sweet smoke with blackberry, leading to a long, elegant finish with a delightful burst of fruit. ($41.99) (93) Shandi Santa Rita Hills 2012 (Califor- nia). Not an alcohol bomb. Medium- bodied, and balanced acidity that makes it very food friendly. Lush red berries and sweet inviting aroma. Can be cellared for another three years. ($38) (93) TULI Pinot Noir 2014 (Sonoma). Intoxicating aromas and flavors of dark fruit, black cherry, floral notes and plum. This pinot noir delivers an exuberantly plush mouthfeel while displaying serious nuance and harmony. The graceful, lengthy finish continues to deposit perfumed black cherry and baking spice notes. ($31) Five Stars (96) Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune Clos de la Mousse 2011 (Burgundy, France). From a top Burgundy house, this exceptional, high-quality wine exhibits finesse, and breeding. Delicious now, it could cer- tainly improve with a little more bottle- time, to bring out more of its elegant characteristics. One of those "don't pass this up" type of wines. ($65) (95) Louis Latour Gevrey Cham- bertin 2012 (France). Rich black cherry and raspberry, with a touch of earth and subtle tannin. Concentrated mouthfull of evolving flavors, with a long elegant finish. Very cellar worthy. ($50) (95) Wren Hop Vineyards Pinot Noir Mortal Coil 2012 (Sonoma Coast). Complex black and red fruit aromas jump out of the glass. Medium-bodied with beautifully balanced fruit and acid- ity. Great varietal character and a long rich finish. ($72) (95) Albert Bichot Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes de Pinot Noir 2012. The "old vine" grapes for this consistently stylistic and Retailer Wine Selections HHHHHHHH PINOT NOIR HHHHHHHH StateWays' sister publication Beverage Dynamics publishes a list of wine recommendations, called Retailer Wine Selections, in every issue, based upon written evaluations by its National Retailer Wine Panel. Each review includes brief tasting notes, a rating and the wine's retail price (which varies from store to store and market to market). The following is a sampling of top PINOT NOIR, chosen by the Beverage Dynamics National Retailer Wine Panel from its latest issue. If you're a control state official who specializes in wine and you'd like to be a member of the new StateWays wine panel, please email associate editor Kyle Swartz at kswartz@epgmediallc.com. Rating System HHHHH Five Stars (92-100) A top- flight wine. Superior in taste and character and providing an outstanding price/value relationship. HHHH Four Stars (86-91) A very good wine and an excellent value. A wine for which customers will keep coming back.