Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/629538
www.goodfruit.com GOOD FRUIT GROWER FEBRUARY 1, 2016 25 just over 4,000 acres, of which about one-third is planted. The area is home to top-notch vineyards that fetch some of the highest red grape prices in the state. Duckhorn had its sights on several parcels that were part of a large land auction by Kennewick Irrigation District in 2013. But the Canadian Aquillini Investment Group bought all 31 parcels totaling 670 acres in one sweep for $8.8 million. The high-stakes auction was an emotional but bonding experience for those who lost out on their dream parcels. "We were all on the losing team together," said Reber, who likened the experience to losing a championship football game. But the result was what she calls the "law of happy and unintended con- sequences." Many people reached out to help them, and they soon bought a parcel. She credits vineyard management consultant Dick Boushey from Grandview, hired to plant and manage the vineyard, for helping Canvasback transition to vineyard owner. "Dick's been our shepherd on the project and our safety net. He hasn't let us make mistakes that we might have otherwise made." She believes local advice is important in wine grape growing because location is site specific and there are many regional differences. Ignoring sage advice from those with on-the-ground experience can be very costly. National reach Duckhorn is not the first California winery to expand into Washington. E & J Gallo bought Columbia Winery in 2012 and, years before that, Chalone Wine Group had a presence in Washington under the Canoe Ridge Vineyard banner. But Duckhorn, with its national sales and mar- keting team, has something many boutique wineries in Washington lack: national reach and distribution. Duckhorn Wine Company, with its six wineries, annually produces around 500,000 cases of wine. About half of its annual production comes from its value Decoy wines. Duckhorn has big plans for its Washington winery. Canvasback's first release went to 20 states. The 2013 vintage is in the midst of going national and will be distributed to all 50 states. The national marketing plan for Canvasback is built on market data that shows wine consumers are thirsty for affordable, luxury Cabernet wines, according to Reber. Canvasback wines retail for $40 per bottle, which translates to being sold on-prem- ise (in restaurants) for $65 to $80. "There's a lot of momentum for high quality Cabernet wines that sell for less than $100 on-premise," she said. "When you think about the price-to-quality ratio, Washington wine is very well poised." Reber noted that the average retail prices for Napa Valley Cabernet wines are $75 to $100, which translates to $150 or more in a restaurant. It's an expensive place to grow grapes, with vineyards fetching $250,000 to $350,000 per acre compared with Washington's $20,000 to $50,000 per-acre cost. Canvasback's estate vineyard, one of the highest vineyards in elevation on Red Mountain, is called Longwinds. "As a high-quality brand, we're a very dirt-focused winery," Reber said. "That's why we bought property on Red Mountain and planted Longwinds Vineyard and why we acquire premiere vineyards in Napa Valley. "The vineyards come first and dictate everything," she said. A tasting room and wine facility are not even in the planning stages. For now, the company is concentrating on getting its Longwinds Vineyard off to a strong start, launching Canvasback in the national market and being good neighbors and stewards of Red Mountain. "We're in it for the long haul," she said. • California winery at WASHINGTON The view from Longwinds Vineyard on Red Mountain is stunning. "We were absolutely blown away by the quality of Washington Cabernet." —Carol Reber PHOTO COURTESY OF DUCKHORN WINE COMPANY