Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/658240
STiR tea & coffee industry international 35 It may seem that the "Yunnan coffee pie" has been pretty much gobbled up by global traders and huge multination- al corporations but this is not the case. In fact, the region accommodates a growing com- munity of smaller, independent companies engaged in providing agricultural education services to local farm- ers, sourcing their coffees there for later export; or both. Founded in 2010 by US-American entrepreneur, phi- lanthropist and coffee aficionado Samuel Gurel, Torch Coffee Company relocated its headquarters to Pu'er in 2015, where it is now developing its green and roasted bean business and trains farmers in the art of green bean processing, a topic that is very close to the heart of the company's founder and c.e.o. During the courses participants learn proper process- ing techniques from theoretical lectures covering the sci- ence and technology involved, but also hands-on prac- tice after class. "They try out several main processing types, including variations of washed, natural and honey processes, as well as a few types of 'winy process' and yeast fermentation. It all requires the participants to be very detail-oriented and attentive, because some of the techniques may go against what they have traditionally practiced," explains Gurel. The ultimate goal of the classes is to raise quality and achieve a better price. Yunnan's smallholder farmers – who make up the majority of growers - have restricted access to investment and work with very tight budgets. Whatever they invest in their farms must lead to a rea- sonable return, otherwise they will not be able to sustain themselves. "For example, with low coffee prices govern- ing the world market this year, they will lose money if they only manage to produce normal [standard] coffee," Gurel says. Some farmers understand how to produce a premi- um product with as little input as possible. "The majority of them grow Catimor, which is a hardy and pest-resistant plant, but also has a low sugar content. That makes it harder to get the higher price from specialty buyers. To be part of the coffee market's exponential growth, farm- ers will have to do two things. First, they must improve the processing to get a better price, and second they must invest [some of] the money earned in better vari- etals and farm renovation," Gurel explains. The tireless efforts of Gurel and his Torch Coffee team indeed seem to pay off. This year, the company was able to develop its very first 100% Yunnan espresso blend using all three main processing methods of washed, honey and natural processing. "It is an amazing espresso blend and it encourages us to keep working hard to improve the quality of cof- fee not only in Yunnan but also elsewhere in Asia," Gurel enthuses, adding that green bean coffee under the Torch Coffee brand is currently sold online and offline, both do- mestically in China as well as in overseas markets includ- ing the US, North Asia, and Europe. – Thomas Schmid Carrying the Torch High CHINA Arabica Robusta Yunnan Fujian Hainan 1 2 3 China's Coffee Growing Provinces 1 Yunnan Province produces arabica coffee exclusively 2 Fujian Province, and 3 Hainan Province exclusively produce robusta Source: International Coffee Organization (ICO) Report "Coffee in China" 2015 2 1 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 Arabica-growing regions (divisions) in Yunnan province 1 – Kunming Division: Yunnan province's capital of Kunming is located in this division and it is here where many of the coffee- trading companies are based. Arabica-growing divisions and regions within Yunnan province: 4 – Baoshan Division - minor crop cultivation only 7 – Pu'er Division - the main cultivation region yielding over 80% of the entire province's Arabica crop; like Kunming, the division capital of Simao (formerly Pu'er) harbors many coffee-trading companies 9 – Dehong Dai and Jingpo Autonomous Prefecture - minor crop cultivation only 14 – Honghe Hani and Yi Autonomous Prefecture - minor crop cultivation only 16 – Xishuangbanna Division – minor crop cultivation only Source: Yunnan Coffee Association