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Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/725097
www.cheersonline.com 12 • September 2016 It's an exciting time for the vermouth category, according to Naren Young, managing partner of Dante in New York. When he took over the 101-year- old Italian café in 2015, "we wanted to add a cocktail program and have a well-curated list of vermouths." Young discussed Dante's beverage strategy as part of a Vermouth Primer session at Tales of the Cocktail. The seminar included a guided tasting of Carpano, Antica and Punt e Mes vermouths led by Edoardo Branca, a sixth-generation brand owner of Fratelli Branca Distillerie. Dante now offers 25 to 30 ver- mouths, with offerings from Spain, Portugal, France and Italy. The current interest in the Negroni has helped peo- ple become more aware of vermouth, Young said. But he added that getting some guests' heads around vermouth can be an uphill challenge. Vermouth cocktails can be a good way to introduce customers to the fortifi ed wine, he noted. In developing these drinks at Dante, Young said, "we take our historical cues and use them as a platform for creativity." One exam- ple is the Upside-down Gibson, which emphasizes the vermouth rather than the gin. Dante's reverse Gibson is made with 2 oz. of dry bianco vermouth, 1 oz. gin and some house-pickled on- ions. "Sometimes we add a bit of onion brine," Young said. Dante serves several Martinis with a 50-50 vermouth-to-gin ratio. They are refreshing and enjoyable this way, plus they're lower-proof cocktails, Young noted. That's key: "We don't want peo- ple to ruin their palates before dinner, as we are a restaurant." But keep in mind that vermouth is a wine and should be treated like one, Young said. So you don't need to get too fancy. For instance, Dante offers ver- mouth on tap, served chilled in a special glass. "There's no shame in serving something simple," Young noted. "Small details elevate the experience." Aim for beautiful, aromatic cock- tails that fi t in with your concept, Young said. You want to deliver a unique guest experience. "If people aren't curious in bars, we're doing something wrong." SCENES FROM TALES OF THE COCKTAIL FORTIFYING YOUR BEVERAGE PROGRAM WITH VERMOUTH The vermouth tasting session included an "Upside-down Gibson" cocktail, left, which emphasizes the vermouth rather than gin. From top left: The lovely ladies manning Tanqueray gin's breakfast bar; the gang from Stiggins' Fancy Plantation Pineapple rum celebrate their Spirited Award; Brent Herrig, Ben Schaffer, Sean Muldoon and Jack McGarry of the Dead Rabbit. From bottom left: Cheers editor Melissa Dowling with mixologist Brian Van Flandern; a $1.50 Bloody Mary at Mr. B's Bistro in New Orleans; the Sofi e-mosa beer cocktail.