STiR coffee and tea magazine

30 STiR coffee and tea / Issue 5, 2017 (October / November) Coffee varietals bear as many as seven seeds. In Brazil Coffea Arabica var. Polysperma is known as seven bean arabica. The EPAMIG (Empresa de Pesquisa Agropecuaria de Minas Gerais) germplasm bank in Minas Gerais maintains a number of coffee varietals with unusual characteristics. "We collect these cherries in a selective and careful way in to evaluate its sensorial profile," explains EPAMIG plant scientist Antônio Alves Pereira. This is a joint project with the Coffee Producers Federa- tion of Cerrado Mineiro, he says. By Kelly Stein One cherry, seven seeds Coffee cherry with multiple seeds The uncommon varietal contains an unusual pair of genes ("fas- ciata") that generate vertical branches with more than two leaves per node. The apex new leaves form a rosette, according to the Caferium website (www.caferium.com). Flowers have a large calyx with more than five lobes. The corolla is formed by two whorls with 6 to 10 petals each. Polysperma refers to "stamens equal in number to the petals, finishing in many stigmas. The ovary consists of two concentric circles of ovules, the inferior being infertile," according to Caferium. The tree produces a large fruit with well-developed cherry that average seven beans. João Paulo Felicori Carvalho, a researcher at the Coffee Produc- ers Federation of Cerrado Mineiro, says tests so far have not demon- strated a pleasing sensorial quality. "The final beverage is not good, however, we will keep these plants for eventual research related to genetics improvement in the future," he explains. There are 40 similar polysperm mutants growing at EPAMIG, sent there by the Agronomic Institute of Paraná (IAPAR) and the Eloy Car- los Heringer Experimental Extension and Research Center (CEPEC) in 2005. The plants are now 11 years old. Innovations in the experimental gardens led to better soil nutrition and improved ir- rigation systems. The farm is developing specific varietals resistant to disease and pests. Coffee scientists and agronomic en- gineers play an important role in making this region a success. "Let's just say that this origin was designed by science and technol- ogy," says Tarabal. Traceability is essential to assure quality. Details like coffee variety, farm, harvest date, and processing methods; microclimate and altitude reasssure consumers. "The federation developed Cerra- do's designation to meet market demand for authenticity. People can learn more about the producers and their initiatives. This tool shortens the long way from farm to cup," explains Tarabal. The federation developed a QR code for registered cof- fee that offers one-click access for consumers to verify variety, processing method, size and sensorial profile. Producers use this method of verification to market their product and pro- mote brand. Birth of a Brazilian origin Observing lines of big harvest machinery moving across a sea of plants under Cerrado Mineiro's intense blue sky, with its end- less flat horizon, reinforces the feeling of immensity. Huge ir- rigation structures were not yet invented in 1970. A severe dry season and poor soil limited production to 35 bags per hectare. "With hard work and the correct technical strategy, we became the reference in coffee production. This determination and will power inspired the Federation's slogan: 'coffee with attitude,'" says Tarabal. The year of 1975 was traumatic for coffee producers in Paraná state. A black frost hit the region in July and decimated coffee properties. Years of investment vanished in hours. In São Paulo state, the problem was nematodes. The plague hits systematically destroying the roots of coffee plants. Nematodes spread quickly to different regions and caused enormous damage. Aware that coffee production in the affected areas was im- possible, "the producers started looking for other origins to invest their knowledge and experience," according to a federa- tion report. As production declined, the Brazilian government decided to intervene and created the Center Pole Project (or the Polo Centro). Managed by the former agriculture minister, Alisson Pauli- nelli, the goal was to encourage farming in the Cerrado Madeiro region (with incentives for any kind of agricultural activities). The government offered affordable land and technical and scientific support to develop and build productivity. "At that time, one of the biggest challenges was the soil. It was very acid and ground liming techniques were necessary to correct the lack of other elements for the plant nutrition," explains Tarabal. Flat topography, high altitude, well defined climatic seasons, ample supplies of water and technology to irrigate combined with government incentives were really important in meeting the goals at that time. In the end, the two big coffee crises brought together farmers from different parts of São Paulo and Paraná and a new coffee origin was born: the Cerrado Mineiro.

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