Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/111102
Chappelle said acacia is more of a challenge to store and maintain between fills, with barrels filled with water every six weeks to keep the wood hydrated. Acacia is used for four years before it's cycled out of the program. "I think it's a great fit and complement for sauvignon blanc and southern Rhone whites," he said. "I prefer it as part of the mix for blending rather than using it 100%. When it's integrated with lots processed in stainless steel and French oak, it adds another layer and more complexity to the blend." DIFFERENTIATING WINES Winemakers Dan and Therese Martin, owners of Martin Ranch Winery near Gilroy, Calif., began using two 225 L Tonnellerie Billon acacia barrels in 2011 for sauvignon blanc to differentiate between the two labels produced by the winery. 1 VandWM-trutan-halfpg-2013.pdf 62 V I N E YARD & WINERY MANAGEMENT | Dan Martin produces sauvignon blanc under the J.D. Hurley label with Santa Clara Valley grapes that are stainless-steel-fermented with some oak aging. Therese produces wines under the Therese Vineyards label with grapes from Arroyo Seco in Monterey County. So far, acacia is used only for the Therese label; about 10% of the 2011 sauvignon blanc was aged in acacia barrels for three months. In 2012, two 500 L acacia puncheons were purchased from Tonnellerie du Sud Oeste. Part of the Therese sauvignon blanc was fermented in acacia, and about 60% of the 2012 vintage will see time in the wood. Dan Martin said, "Sauvignon blanc can be a delicate wine, and it doesn't need much barreling, so the acacia helps highlight the fruit, whereas oak can have heavier flavor and has a tendency to mask fruit flavors." He also observed, "Acacia seems to be more porous 2/4/13 8:08 PM Mar - Apr 2013 than oak, with higher wine loss and more barrel topping, which is a bit of a negative, but sauvignon blanc is only in barrel for three to four months, so it's not a major factor." The Martins are also experimenting with acacia for aging riesling and chardonnay, after the sauvignon blanc is removed from the barrels. They plan to try acacia with viognier and pinot noir. "It seems to be a positive factor for riesling, and adds a touch of yellow color, as it otherwise would be pretty colorless," Martin said. "It's an interesting new tool, and so far, what we've seen, we like." Ted Rieger , CSW, is a writer and photographer based in Sacramento, Calif., and has been a contributing editor for V&WM since 1990. Comments? Please e-mail us at feedback@vwmmedia.com. w w w. v w m m e d i a . c o m