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Torrontés is typically a white varietal with which guests are unfamiliar—though that is changing. Eric Brown, corporate beverage director for beverage operations for Brazilian steakhouse chain Fogo de Chão Churrascaria, says that the white Argentinian varietal tends to be one of the most surprising wines for diners. "If a guest is searching for something light and refreshing but with good body, silky texture and smooth mouth feel, this is our go-to grape," Brown says. Two of Fogo de Chao's most popular torrentés are the 2012 Santa Julia torrontés from Mendoza ($33 a bottle) and 2012 Trivento "Amado Sur" torrontés from Mendoza ($11 a glass). At the Grand Central Oyster Bar in New York, guests who have not tried torrontés before tend to be impressed with how well it pairs with oysters and seafood, says general manager Kevin Faerkin. For instance, he cites the Doña Paula torrontés ($40 a bottle) paired with the Oyster Bar's lobster salad ($30) or Island Creek Oysters ($3.25 each). And Del Campo, an upscale South American grill Del Campo in Washington, D.C., carries two styles of torrontés, says wine director Morgan Fausett: the floral 2012 Finca La Linda torrontés for $36 a bottle as well as the crisp and citrusy 2011 Finca Eugenio Bustos torrontés for $40 a bottle. —KAM yielding expressive, elegant whites from classic international varietals such as chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. When it comes to chardonnay, Faerkin notices that some producers strive for a more elegant, mineral-driven Burgundian style, while others seek a riper, bigger California style. "The most successful ones, in my experience, have captured their own unique character from the terroir and simultaneously found pleasurable harmony in the glass," he notes. OUTSTANDING QUALITY, SUPERIOR VALUE Legal Sea Foods' wine lists span around 180 bottles, with about 7% coming from South America. Sandy Block, master of wine and vice president of beverage for the 33 locations of the Boston-based seafood chain, has had success on his menus with the 2011 Vina Errazuriz Wild Ferment chardonnay ($10.50 a glass, $35 a bottle). The wine, from Chile's Casablanca Valley, boasts native yeasts used during fermentation that add complexity and an interesting aromatic component. Block praises its "outstanding structure and value that is superior to what we could find at the same price from California." He has seen Chile making great strides with sauvignon blanc, not only from the Casablanca Valley, but from San Antonio and Limari as well. Legal Sea Foods recently featured a month-long focus on the wines of Chile called Tapestry of Terroir, including a wine list insert with information about Chile's wine regions and industry, tasting notes and a flight. The flight of three 2-oz. pours, priced at $9.75, included the Emiliana "Novas" Gran Reserva pinot noir, Santa Rita Reserva carmenere and Emiliana "Novas" Gran Reserva cabernet sauvignon. 30 | SEPTEMBER 2013 Above, Kevin Faerkin, general manager at New York's Grand Central Oyster Bar, pairs seafood with tannat from Uraguay and torrontés from Argentina. Right, Sandy Block, vice president of beverage for Legal Sea Foods, is a fan of several wines from Chile. Gregory singles out Chile's Leyda Valley as producing the most "stylistically distinctive" examples. "They show great freshness and a really vibrant lime zest note on the nose." He notes that these sauvignon blancs are not as herbaceous as their French counterparts, and they display a slightly different citrus character than those from Napa Valley or New Zealand. And although its wines are currently not as much on the map as other South American countries, don't discount Brazil, says Brown. He believes that with the World Cup right around the corner, and the Summer Olympics in Rio de Janeiro in 2016, we will see more Brazilian wines, especially chardonnays, cabernet sauvignons and moscatos. Fogo de Chão already carries several Brazilian wines, including the NV Salton Brut from Serra Gaucha ($38 a bottle) and the 2010 Salton "Volpi" pinot noir, also from Serra Gaucha ($46 a bottle). Del Campo also serves the 2011 Salton pinot noir ($44 a bottle), as well as the 2007 Casa Valduga merlot from Vale dos Vinhedos ($48 a bottle). Expect more surprises from South America, predicts Faerkin, like riesling and dry muscat from Chile's Leyda Valley. As the "value-driven" perception shifts to "quality-driven" he says, the market for and availability of great wines—and new and surprising varietals—will wow sommeliers and guests alike. Kelly Magyarics, DWS, is a wine and spirits writer and educator in the Washington, D.C. area. She can be reached through her website, www.kellymagyarics.com, or on Twitter @kmagyarics www.cheersonline.com

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