Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/263110
www.goodfruit.com GOOD FRUIT GROWER MARCH 1, 2014 37 In 2007, the Roberts purchased about 70 acres of land along Highway 105 between Aberdeen and Westport about seven miles from the Pacific Ocean. They had recently moved from Hawaii to Wash- ington after owning a large scuba-diving business. They had agricultural experience from farming in eastern Washington, and orig- inally planned to bring the neglected, overgrown property back to life as a farm. Unsure of the best crop and use for the land, they sought the advice of their local Washington State University Extension agent Don Tapio. "Don told us to plant a vineyard and start a winery," Kim recalled. "He said to us, 'It'll be historic.'" Westport Winery, the first winery in Grays Harbor, opened in 2008. The win- ery is a replica of Grays Harbor Light- house. Kim and Blain's son Dana, who completed WSU's enology certificate program, is winemaker, and their daugh- ter Carrie is general manager. The winery produces about 5,000 cases annually. The Roberts have received more than 150 awards for their wines and were named Best Wine Tour/Destination by Seattle's King 5 Evening Magazine for three years in a row and the 2011 Washington Winery to Watch by Wine Press Northwest magazine. On the edge At four acres, their Vineyards By-the-Sea is small by most commercial grape-growing standards, but that doesn't mean it's any easier than growing a section of grapes. Growing wine grapes within a few miles of the ocean, where average rainfall is around 70 inches per year, is challenging and requires matching site with the appropriate rootstock and cultivar, said Kim. "We're in the westernmost spot in Washington that Dr. Greg Jones [South- ern Oregon State University research climatologist] identified as a viable wine grape-producing area. We knew going in that we were right on the edge. It's been a big learning curve, and we've made some mistakes." For one, the varieties Madeleine Angevine and Siegerrebe, which do well in other Puget Sound locations, did not grow well in their wet soils. Both were quickly removed. Riesling was another struggling variety that also has been removed. After working with several nurseries, they have found four rootstock and scion combinations that are performing well: Pinot Noir on rootstock 101-14 Millar- det et de Grasset, Pinot Precoce on 3309 Coudrec, Cabernet Franc on Selection Oppenheim 4, and Muscat of Norway on 3309 C. Concord grapes have also been planted. Other fruit crops include apples, pears, cane berries, strawberries, blueber- ries, and stone fruits. The Roberts source grapes that they can't grow from well-known eastern Washington vine- yards, such Red Willow, Upland Estates, and Jones of Washington, to name a few. "I'm pretty sure that we haul grapes farther than anyone in the state," said Kim. Customer is king As customers have suggested various blends and fruits, the wine list has grown from the original dozen to 33 different wines—fruit, sparkling, dessert, and dry wines. There are the classic wines, like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and the not-so-traditional blends of pome- granate and Gewürztraminer, raspberry and Riesling, and cranberry wine. (Continued on page 38) Westport Winery, located seven miles from the Pacific Ocean, is more than a winery and offers a bakery and restaurant, retail nursery, outdoor sculpture garden, nine-hole putting course, 40-foot tall lighthouse, and more. Maritime architecture is used in all of its buildings. Grapes C ommunity is important to the Roberts family of Westport Winery and Vineyards By-the-Sea. As a way to give back, the family has matched a charity with each wine label (they currently make 33 different wines) and donates proceeds from wine sales to the matched charity. For example, proceeds from sales of their Bog Berry Blush wine, a blend of Gewürztraminer and cranberry, benefit the Washington State University Pacific Coast Cranberry Research Station and Museum. Another is Charterboat Chick, a Cabernet Sauvignon wine that benefits the Westport Charterboat Association. Kim and Blain, instead of drawing a salary from the winery, live on income from commercial property they own in Hawaii. "We're not rich, but we have a passion for our community," said Kim. In five years, they've donated about $250,000 to local groups. Kim said that motivation for their new line of hard ciders was Mercy Ships, a nonprofit international organization that provides healthcare via ships off the African coast. "After watching a documentary on the organization, I felt compelled to support the charity even though it's not local. That meant I had to come up with a new product, and that's how our new hard cider line was born." —M. Hansen "Our outlook was different than most because it didn't start with loving wine. It was about loving our family." —Kim Roberts Wineries at Washington's geographical extremities Veranda Beach Cellars 2995 GDD Basalt Cellars 2829 GDD Graves Vineyard 3029 GDD • Westport Winery 1513 GDD • • • GDD is the long-term average of growing-degree days, a way to measure heat units. T o learn more about Westport Winery and the charities the Roberts family supports, visit www. westportwinery.org/winetastingnotes. WESTPORT WINERY supports community