Cheers

www.cheersonline.com 43 JUNE 2014 | that drinkmakers on the staff must be introducing new flavors constantly to keep fresh. Regular customers tend to be adventurous already, he says, so unusual spirits like Swedish Punsch—a combination of rum, spices and Batavia arrack—don't really faze them. "We established our reputation as a forward-thinking bar, so people expect to try something new when they come here," Weise says. Pisco, for instance, got an early chance at e Raymond as a cocktail ingredient because it provides an alternative to vodka, gin and other white spirits, with entirely an different flavor profile well-suited for cocktail making, he says. Soju, the Korean and Japanese spirit made from rice, wheat, barley or sweet potatoes, is not unfamiliar in California restaurants, due to the proliferation of Korean bars and restaurants. ere's also the effect of the state issuing many beer and wine-only licenses. Because soju is available at 24% alcohol by volume, the legal limit for those licensees, some use the spirit to make cocktails. "In California there are many restaurants with only beer and wine licenses, like us," says omas Elliott, owner of Venice Ale House and Bank of Venice in Venice Beach, CA. "We have people who come in all the time asking for their drink of choice, like Jack and Coke. For us with our soju cocktails, it's a process of selling them on how amazing soju can be in a drink." e drinks at the Venice Ale House tend to be soju versions of well-known classics, while the Bank of Venice gets more creative; examples include e Mint ($10), made Mojito style with fresh local chocolate mint and served up with raw cacao; and e Heat ($12), made with spicy infused soju and fresh ginger juice. e Bank of Venice also makes its own infusions, such as Madagascar vanilla, serrano chile/papaya and espresso. Are guests embracing the sojus? "ose customers willing to venture out a little and try something unique almost always enjoy their experience," Elliott says. SELLING THE STORY To effectively market the more exotic spirits, bartenders need to understand the category and brand differences, Weise says. But that's not too difficult these days, given contemporary enthusiasm for spirit discovery among pros and consumers. "If bartenders try one of these and like them, they'll get into it, find out all they can and become advocates," he says. Weise cites Fernet Branca and mezcal as two examples of how enthusiastic bartenders can help drive interest and sales. "We like to be tastemakers and trendsetters, like to know what's going on and be ahead of the curve—it's part of why we do what we do." But no matter how pumped up a bartender might be about a spirit, only when customers start embracing the idea will more obscure brands and categories emerge. As Strauss at the Dream Hotel says, you can create a unique cocktail out of almost any spirit, "but you need a good conversation starter to build excitement, and then that customer will like it, adopt it as their own and want to talk about it, too." It's sort of like being the first to like an independent film, Strauss notes: "You want people to know that you recommended it, because it makes you feel cool." Jack Robertiello is a wine and spirits writer/consultant based in Brooklyn, NY. The bar at the Bank of Venice in Venice, CA, above, offers soju-based cocktails such as the Mojito-like Mint, upper right, and the Bank Cosmo, lower right, which includes a touch of blueberry. 40-43 exotic spirits CH0614.indd 43 6/3/14 9:34 PM

• Cover