Beverage Dynamics is the largest national business magazine devoted exclusively to the needs of off-premise beverage alcohol retailers, from single liquor stores to big box chains, through coverage of the latest trends in wine, beer and spirits.
Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/41523
The cabernet sauvignon and graciano are fermented in oak barrels and the entire blend is aged in new French oak barrels for two and a half years. Dalmau's black ink color and noticeable oak aroma and flavor is Marquis de Murietta's acknowl- edgment that Rioja's most historic winery recognizes the palate pref- erence of many contemporary con- sumers. The 2004 Dalmau is the current vintage. Bodegas Luis Canas is the other bookend of Rioja winemaking. In 1989, the then 33-year old Juan Luis Canas took command of the family winery and began a process of modernization that stretched from vineyard to winemaking to a new winery. Its three reservas, gran reserva, and special bottling, Hiru 3 Racimos illustrate Canas' modern wine style of up- front fruit and oak accents. Its reservas La Familia and Amaren, Gran Reserva, and Hiru 3 Racimos are all aged in new French and American oak barrels. They have the DNA of New World wines: Opaque purple to blackish-red hues; a polished, velvety texture; an aroma spectrum of burnt wood, cinnamon, licorice, and black fruits; and flavors ranging from blackberry marmalade, plum, black olive, raisin, to chocolate. The tannins and acidity of these wines have been subdued by winemaking techniques unknown a quarter-century ago. While they have the structure for aging, they need only a glass. These two styles are the contrasts of Rioja today. They are not in conflict. One is anchored in time; the other reflects our moment. Between the two bookends is the winery that brought Rioja into the modern era: Marques de Caceres. In 1970, Enrique Forner, who left Spain as a child during the Spanish Civil War, returned as a successful Bordeaux chateaux owner. With the financial resources from reestablishing chateaux Camensac and Larose-Trintaudon, and a rela- tionship with Bordeaux's preeminent enologist Emile Peynaud, Forner built the first new winery in 50 years in Rioja. They introduced the revolutionary idea of using new French oak barrels for aging in a region that used American oak. They reduced the barrel aging time to a year or two in a region that aged wines for years, and sometimes decades. And they disposed of barrels within 10 years where the tradition was to employ the barrels for a generation or more. Stainless steel temperature-con- trolled fermentation tanks were installed in a land where ancient casks were normally used. And Bordeaux methods of racking, fining, filtering, and winery cleanliness were introduced. And last, but certainly not least, the Forner family brought to Rioja the Bordeaux expert- ise in marketing. And they kept their eyes focused on the market, introducing two wines in this decade to supplement the classic selection of Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva. Gaudium was created in 1994 and brought to market in 1999. Classified Reserva, Gaudium is a spe- cial selection of grapes with a longer maceration, and fermentation and aging for 2 years in new French oak barrels. It has all the 21st century touchstones of black ink color, toasted new oak, jammy fruit flavors and plush tannins. Marques de Caceres Gaudium and MC. The second wine, MC was developed in 2001 and made its market debut in 2003. It doesn't carry a clas- sification, but it does reflect its kinship to Gaudium. It, too, is a special selection of grapes aged in new French oak for 15 months and is committed to a New World style. Both are priced substantially above the tradition- al Reserva and Gran Reserva and reflect the style of Michel Rolland, wine consultant to Marques de Caceres. Marques de Caceres showed Rioja that its wines needed to be fresher, cleaner, and ready to meet the modern palate and contemporary standards. Its classic wines remain some of the best values in Rioja. s 14 • Beverage Dynamics • www.beveragedynamics.com • September/October 2011