Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/501762
8 6 V I N E YA R D & W I N E RY M A N A G E M E N T | M a y - J u n e 2 015 w w w. v w m m e d i a . c o m EXCESS OXYGEN Asked if he has ever noticed any problems with the kegged wines containing excess dissolved gas from the pressurized kegs, Kien- itz said that best practices should be able to eliminate any excess bubbles. "We're running (kegs) at a very low PSI, and we're also pushing with argon instead of nitrogen or CO2, which is really cheap. If you're running at any kind of pressure, you're going to get CO2 out of solu- tion," he explained. "Argon is more expensive, but it's also four times heavier than nitrogen, so if I have a leaky hose somewhere, it will main- tain a nice heavy blanket on the wine and the wine will stay safe." Kienitz credits the local F.H. Steinbart Co. for setting up and optimizing tap systems for many local breweries, restaurants and Springhouse's tasting room. "My only concern with the sys- tem is that the wines are living in a relatively reductive environment, and it has the potential to dumb- down the aromas in the short term, or you might get some sulfite aro- mas," he said. Public reaction to the tap-based tasting room has generally been positive, Kienitz said, but there are some who think it odd. "There are some people who don't think it's appropriate for wine, and those are the people who aren't going to buy anything outside of Bordeaux or Napa anyway." For Kienitz, the spoilage preven- tion, efficiency and environmental benefits of the on-tap tasting room easily outweigh any disadvantages. concept caught on quickly with craft breweries, but wineries have been a bit slower to implement these sorts of programs. Kienitz said that Springhouse embraced the strategy from the beginning, but that it has only recently been explicitly approved under Oregon law for the last couple of years. Then, of course, are Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) regulations with regard to label requirements. Springhouse was proactive in approaching feder- al officials with a compliance plan. "Federally, the wine had to be sold in bottles with a government- approved label," Kienitz said. "We use silk-screened labels approved by the TTB, and we also have removable labels with the variety, warning and alcohol level, so we were covered. When we were fill- ing bottles and sealing them with screwtops in the factory, we were in compliance and the feds didn't have any issues with it. We were up-front and walked them through it so that we knew they wouldn't come back at us." Hood River is a popular outdoor recreation area 60 miles east of Portland and draws visitors from far and wide for kiteboarding, windsurfing, kayaking, sailing and hiking, as well as its scenic gifts. Oregon's reputation for having a strong environmental conscience is well-established. Kienitz said he only wants to sell the refillable liter bottles to locals. Everybody else can buy a standard 750 mL bottle. "We try to not sell refillable bottles to someone from Atlanta or San Diego," he said. "I want to see that bottle again." "Glass is great for recycling, but if you don't live on the coast, a lot of it goes into a landfill anyway," he said. "One statistic I see all the time is that in Europe, a bottle is recycled about seven times. It goes around and around the cycle, and then they export it to the States and we throw it away. That's a sad statement, and if we can be a small part of the pro- cess of not throwing so much away, that makes me happy." Tim Teichgraeber cut his teeth in retail wine sales before becom- ing the wine columnist for the Min- neapolis Star Tribune. Today he is a contributor to the San Francisco Chronicle, Tasting Panel, Opus Vino and other publications, when he's not working as an entertainment lawyer in San Francisco. Comments? Please e-mail us at feedback@vwmmedia.com. Expertly judged by women, for women Join the ranks of excellence. Special award for best woman winemaker! 2014 - Sarah Troxell, Galen Glen Winery, Andreas, Pennsylvania 2013 - Shauna Rosenblum, Rock Wall Wine Company, Alameda, California 2012 - Georgetta Dane, Big House Wines , Soledad, California 2015 International Women's Wine Competition Enter by 6/19/15